Day 4 - 21 September 2012 - Mechtersheim to Lauderbourg - 68k

It was a great night's sleep, and rare to form it was Julie shaking me from my slumbers at a few minutes before 6am The day had dawned, and there were more kilometres to be covered. Breakfast in these German Hotels are simply a delight, and this morning was no different. The cereals are delicious, only surpassed by the selection of meats, cheeses, bacon, egss and  breads. There is only so much you can eat in a single setting. It was time to go.

Our bikes spent the night in the rear garage of this massive country hotel. They were very safe. We loaded up, and rolled out of this beautiful German hamlet of Mechtersheim at a few minutes after 8:30am. We risked our reputations by heading out the back way of the village because we followed some hunches that it would eventually lead us back to the Rhine bike path. There were no signs as we left the village, and headed down a narrow country lane thickly lined with forest. The back waters of the Rhine has formed lakes all along this section, and we were nervously heading through this network of lakes and trees hoping that somewhere we would link with the Rhine path. It was a joy to hopeful hearts when through the trees we could see the bike path coming from the north to our left in the distance. We have come to love the Rhine path.

The route today was just glorious. It took us through some wonderful farming communities with very large fields under plough. Massive fields of corn was mature and ready for harvest. We also saw farmers using large machinery to harvest vast fields of cabbage like plants. There were many villages today. The path takes us mostly through back streets, but the scenery of these beautiful German villages was so tempting to keep us taking photos. We are so impressed at how clean everything is. The villages today were models of culture and history.

We spent many kilometres today riding alongside the Rhine, watching the barges go up and down the river. The river is surprisingly clean and clear, and running quite fast. It is a grand river, the further we go the closer we get to its source in the Swiss Alps.

We were heading for Worth am Rhein as our target for lunchtime. Our real objective for the day was Lauterburg, some 20k beyond Worth am Rhein, and actually on the French side of the border. Just to the south of Worth am Rhein the river becomes the border between Germany and France, and being on the western side of the river, we expected to cross the border south of Worth.

The Germans need to be commended on the beautiful way they look after the bike paths. We passed cyclists all through the day, but the path is really like roads for bikes only, and many Germans use the bikeways like cars use roads. Almost every house has a bike. Most cyclists we see are elderly people going from town to town instead of catching the bus.

We ambled into Worth an Rhein, but struggled to find the centre of town. We needed supplies, and after asking directions, we found this market/mall alongside the main road which hardly compared to anything we had seen all day. We bought some things and sat on the nature strip in the shade and had lunch. A guy came up and wanted to talk, he had seen our flags and loved Australia. He parked his car, and gave us two free T-shirts that were part of a sports promotion thing he was doing that day. We had to take them, but hardly have room for these. However, he was lovely, as are most people we meet.

The final 20k to Lauterburg was something of an effort. We were keen to get in for the day, but that 20k was again glorious. Pastures, forests and of course long sections of the glorious Rhine, with barges, ducks etc to make the Rhine a very living thing. We didn't notice crossing into France, but found our way into Lauterburg by about 3pm. It was absolutely beautiful, ornate in its cultural architecture with flags, gardens, flowers to make everywhere we looked a portrait of french culture. This village is a hidden delight.

We couldnt find the camping ground though. My map had it marked, but we couldnt find it. We were hot, a little frustrated and weary, and no one spoke english. I spoke in my best french, and managed to get some directions. At least we confirmed it existed. A fellow directed us down a lane, it was steep and entered bushland. We were hoping we didnt have to go back up again. We still couldnt find it, and found our way back up to the main street feeling very despondent and weary.

However, after tracking down the 'Office de Tourism' where again no one spoke english, but at least with my little bit (un petit pe) of french I was able to get better directions, a phone introduction and we were then destined to spend our first night in the tent.

The camping ground is massive, very lovely with lake and great facilities, but no english which makes life a bit difficult. It is not tourist season, which is good for us but we are the only ones asking about milk (au lait, milche etc) but can't make them understand that we want to buy some milk! There is a cafe but not a regular kiosk that sells supplies to campers.

Anyway, the tent is up. We are showered. We've made our own coffee with our remaining milk, and we are cosy in the tent. We are now sitting waiting for dinner at the little reception/cafe area, but as no one can understand us, we can't get them to understand that we just want dinner so we can go to bed. There is only 'pizza' on the menu, but I suspect they are doing dinner french style where most folk drink heaps and linger over glasses of wine and beer before dinner, which is usually taken late.

Ahh...the pizza has been served! It actually looks delicious, served not on plates but on a piece of rectangular 3-ply (timber)!

Anyway, it has been a great day. It is tiring, towing our load every day, but we love the time together and particularly the incredible sights we see everyday. I thought of the Psalmist today as we viewed magnificent fields with crops and cattle. In the words of God, "For every animal of the forest is mine, and the cattle on a thousand hills". Psalm 50:10

Tomorrow we ride to Kehl, across the river from Strassbourg. Love from Kelvin and Julie
PS It has just started to rain!!