Day 6 - 23 September 2012 - Kehl to Breisach - 85k

We expected today to be a very big day, almost too big. We were feeling battle weary, the toll of solid distances with heavy loads seemed to be showing their affects on our muscles. We were not sure if we would make it all the way to Breisach today. However, we slept rather well in our cosy tent, and reluctantly rolled out just on dawn. It was cool but not uncomfortable, but likely to warm up like most other days have.

We were not confident of the way to go, but having packed, we left the camp ground and turned south, knowing the river was to our right side. We only had a hand drawn map taken from a book on cycling the Rhine, not being able to find the Tourist office open on the day before.

Just like every other day, the early morning in the Rhine region is simply enchanting. We pass through thick, wet forest, then open farms and fields with corn or under cultivation, or a lovely open field of green with fawns (young deer) prancing like little children as we passed. We traced the Rhine south, and reluctantly turned into gravel paths again not far from leaving Kehl. The gravel is wet, rough and loose making it much harder to cycle on 28C tyres. We were heading for the Rhine Dam up ahead, but had to manage the rough track despite the sheer beauty of the German forest, dripping with early morning dew. The forest floor is wet, covered in a carpet of decaying  leaves. We passed numerous fishermen today, so many are incredibly well set up, with small tents, multiple rods, even a table – it was Sunday after all, so I guess it brought out the amateur fishermen.

We crossed a narrow foot-bridge in the forest that spanned a side-water of the Rhine. The problem was, it had a step each side, requiring the bikes and all the load to be lifted up – easier said than done. We were hoping we were on the right path that would lead us in the direction of Breisach.

We passed the Dam, a welcome sight, and then the track followed the river for many kilometers. The rough map we were using actually suggested to take the path across the river to France, which we did not want to do. So from mid-morning we were riding almost by instinct, with no marked map now to show us the way.

I think for the next few hours, while we were not entirely lost, we are certain we were riding with a degree of divine guidance. We found ourselves away from the river, and now going through many small country villages, following bike signs to villages that we had no idea of where they were because they didn’t show anywhere on our rough map from the Rhine cycling book. We were paving our own way. However, by roughly knowing that the Rhine was somewhere to our right, and having a compass on board in my Bryton GPS computer, we stayed in a roughly southern direction. In one village we asked directions, and they sent us off course for another hour or so, but eventually our hearts settled when we saw a bike path sign pointing to the village of Rheinhaussen. We knew from the Dam information board, that Rheinhaussen was en route to Breisach.

To our delight, the distance was not as great as we anticipated. Once at Rheinhaussen, we could calculate that the next main village of Sasbach was half way to Breisach, which meant that we would be able to make it to our original goal by late afternoon. All of these villages are beautiful. The thing that strikes us the most is the absolute cleanliness. There is never any rubbish, anywhere. There is no such thing as an untidy village. We’ve never seen a dead animal on the road.

The final 25k to Breisach was a bit of a marathon on tired, hot bodies. We enjoyed everything we saw. We were now back on our beloved Rhine path, but which took us through forest, wet gravel roads mostly, but one section was muddy and full of puddles. Finally we were back on top of the levee wall that ran alongside the beautiful Rhine.

We found a long stretch of forest road with these carvings at the side of the road. It reminded us - we are in Black Forest country.

I said to Julie to take a final look at the wonderful, majestic Rhine, because once at Breisach, we then leave the Rhine for good, and head for the top of the Black Forest. Actually, we have been riding on the edge of the Black Forest for two days, but far enough away not to really notice. Only today we could see in the distance the tyranny of the mountain range of the Black Forest looming large. That is tomorrow’s project.

We finally managed to roll into Breisach. It is something of a treasure. We came right through, keen to get to the camping ground some 5k further south. But we plan to go back before making the 25k climb to Frieburg on top of the Black Forest tomorrow. The village is beautiful, the Breisach Munster literally towering from a cliff top over the otherwise ornate German village.

Our camp ground tonight is in a small village outside Breisach. It is in the rear grounds of a very beautiful, historic German Hotel – the Landgasthof Adler in Hochstetton. We love our tent, and once into bed it is warm and very cosy.

This has been another great day. We see so much and experience so much, that by the end of day it is hard to recall what happened at the start of day. People in camping grounds are wonderful. We seem to engage with travelers from all over the world.

Just finally, seeing the deer today playing in the lovely green fields, I thought of the Psalmist who said “The earth is the LORD's, and everything in it, the world, and all who live in it” Psalm 24:1. It is a great world in which we live/

Love from Breisach, Kelvin and Julie