It was a dark arrival at Decin last night, although it was only about 5:30pm. It is quite dark now by 5pm, now that daylight saving has finished in Europe. We booked in to the Hotel Koruna (same chain as Routnice) but had no idea of the sheer beauty of the village square until we looked out the window from our second floor Hotel suite. The views were simply stunning, right to the small castle or church on the rocky hilltop in the far distance. Decin has a great history, and the village square and the magnificant palace have been wonderfully maintained in their historic splendour.
Overnight, the girls' bikes were shod with new rear brakes, so hopefully they will have less trouble stopping on their fast descents! The bikes were also washed overnight, and looked gleaming and bright for the journey today to Dresden.
We lined up for the official photo outside the Hotel Koruna, whose beds go down as the most comfortable on the journey thus far! Neither of the girls in particular were keen on getting out of them this morning. SJ looked like she had melted into hers overnight! Leave we did, however, down to the bridge where we stopped to get some final photos of the beautiful river bank scenery and of course the stunningly beautiful Decin Palace.
After crossing the bridge, we turned right and followed the left bank of the Elbe for the entire day. The day was cool to cold, threatening rain to begin with but which never really eventuated, and sometimes we could almost a feel afanning breeze to our backs. The scenery was stunning from the start. We were still in the Czech Republic, but within ten kilometres or so we were expecting to cross the border back into Germany, into the German Province of Saxony. This section of the river path is called Saxon Switzerland because of its very high rock features that rise above the Elbe River.
The path had its rare rough patches, but by and large the bike path was a dedicated bitumen path with an excellent surface, just right for allowing the bikes to almost cruise by themselves. For most of the morning the bike path tracked closely with the River. We tended to spread out at times along the track. I liked to hang back to keep stopping to take photos. My camera is easily accessible, just sitting in my shirt pocket. Often, I am able to take photos while moving on the bike. It should be noted however, that this should only be done by trained professionals, and should not be tried at home!
The river was just a delight today. The conditions were pleasant, and the views of the mountains on either side of the track enchanting if not stunning at times.
We passed a number of ferry crossings today. They are always a wonderful experience. However, today we were sticking to the left bank all the way, so today ferry crossings were just for the looking. The boats are all different but quaint and often simply cute. The official name for this section of the river is the "Elbe Sandstone Mountains". This section of river draws about one million tourists annually, and we can now understand why.
Some ten kilometres after leaving Decin we came to the official border post between Czech Republic and Saxon Germany. Only the Czech republic has posted a signpost. We have grown in love with the Czech Republic and were a little sad to finally leave it behind. It has been a wonderful experience in our lives, and a little bit of Czech Republic will always go with us in our hearts. However, we also loved Germany, and it was no time after crossing into Germany again that we started to hear the very familiar and welcome 'morgen' and 'guten tag' (good morning, and good day). We felt back in familiar territory.
The beautiful forests though know no borders. The almost continuous golden road was always with us, the great elms and oaks leaving their autumn leaves as a golden welcome carpet for us to follow wherever we rode. We have been enjoying these scenes for at least five weeks now.
Approaching Bad Schandau, the houses especially on the other bank were becoming more frequent. The houses were so dwarfed against the massive walls of sandstone, and which were mostly covered by the forest with its trees of deep autumn colours almost looking like a burnt brown from a distance.
Scenes like this were frequent. It just continues to amaze how people over the centuries have been able to create such beautiful houses and villages out of the rock of the landscape. We pushed past Bad Schandou which was on the othe bank, and joined the busy highway for a brief 6k in order to get to the next river town of Konigstein. The road was actually a motorway which rose away from the river into and through the forest. There was no bike path or apron, and the cars and trucks were driving very fast, so it was a breath holding excercise as we climbed and dipped our way over the 6km as fast as we could without being bowled by the traffic. We arrived in historic Konigstein in one piece!
Leaving Konigstein, we were dwarfed by the magnificent Konigstein fortress that was built high on a rocky mountain looking down over the village. It was so high our camera could not capture it, and with the dull conditions the grey stones fortress walls just blended into the colour of the sandtsone mountain upon which it was magnificantly built. However, I managed to capture a more modern 'castle' that was beautifully tucked away in the mountainside with its own stream running around it.
As we rounded the bend at Oberathen, the sandstone mountain that lined the opposite shore stood high and sheer. Running across the top and not easily photographed was the Bastei Bridge, a sandstone arched bridge that has been built across the top of the cliffs.
Look carefully and you will see one of the arches of the Bastei Bridge....
On the run into Pirna for lunch, the track was engulfed again by many kilometres of the most beautiful, pristine golden forest.
Is lunch ready yet?
We were heading to Pirna for lunch, but as we passed the cows we came upon the tiny village with one pub and a park at Oberoglesang. It was now sunny, and we had our own picnic table just for us in the sun to enjoy our pre-packed rolls with german sausage, camonbert cheese and banana and apple. We turned on the trangia and also enjoyed our stock in trade hot coffee made from saches of coffee we brought from Australia. It was a pefect place and a lovely warm spot beside the great Elbe River.
With time now slipping by and with another 25k or so to go, we sadly had to leave our sunny picnic spot and make for Dresden just further down the river. It was a pleasant afternoon. We were not in fear of darkness closing in, but we expected to hit the big city and suburbia and probably the usual confusion of getting in to the bigger cities. However, the run into Dresden was surprisingly easy, open and picturesque right up until the final bridge crossing.
Today was Sarah-Janes last day, after cycling with us for three weeks. She joined us with her bike at Linz in Austria on the Danube, and we have tracked together along the Danube to Bratislava in Slovakia, and then further on the Danube into Budapest in Hungary, then back to Prague by train and then of course by bike from Prague along the Vltava and Elbe Rivers through Czech Republic and into Germany. We had to pose for the official ride photo of the three of us, the only photo of all three for the entire time we were together. The background is an ancient vineyard, famous along this part of the River Elbe. We could see Dresden in the distance. It was a wonderful time together, and we were rather sad to have to say goodbye the following morning.
The beautiful buildings of Dresden loomed into view. Known as the 'Florence of the Elbe', this beautiful city of buildings and water was bombed and almost levelled by the Allies in February 1945, just two months prior to the end of WW2. Much of the historic inner city was destroyed by the bombs and the massive fires that resulted. Loss of civilian life was horrific. We intend to explore more of this tomorrow.
We crossed the bridge into the new town (Neustadt) of Dresden, on the right bank having entered Dresden at the Old town (Alstadt) on the left bank. Our booked accommodation was at the 'Louise 20' hostel, so we weren't expecting too much. However, despite the city crush of the Neustadt, the Hostel was pleasantly located behind the main row of buildings that fronted the busy street. It was beautifully located in a lovely quiet setting. This was home for the night. Sadly it was full of young tourists who were obviously not told of the noise curfew after 10pm.
Our time with SJ came to a fitting end. Instead of celebrating over a German sausage or Schnitzel, we chose to eat a celebration dinner at the local Thai restaurant. It was healthier than schnitzel, and cost a lot less also. Actually it was a most enjoyable meal, and a nice way to celebrate with our precious daughter Sarah-Jane who has been a precious companion for these three weeks, and a proven champion on the touring bike. We went to bed knowing that she had to make an early dash by train to the airport with her bike for her various flights back to London. It was the end of a fabulous day on the Elbe River.
Today has been a great day of cycling along the fabulous River Elbe. Despite the clouds of the morning, and the sun shining on the river in the afternoon, the river looked the same all day. There is nothing like a beautiful, majestic river that looks so peaceful and calming to the human spirit.
In the Bible, the prophet Isaiah compares life that is lived consistent with the desires and purposes of God, to that of the peace of a mighty river. Writing to the people of God who were too prone to live outside of the commands and desires of God for them, he said, speaking on behalf of God "
If only you had paid attention to my commands, your peace would have been like a river, your well-being like the waves of the sea". Too often we experience the rough end of life. I wonder whether it is worth asking, "am I living my life consistently with the desires and wishes of God for me"? If you want life with the peace of a mighty river, then it is worth a thought.
As we rest tonight, we rest in the assurance of God's peace upon us all. From the edge of the mighty Elbe at Dresden, we send our love.
Kelvin, Julie and for the final night, Sarah-Jane
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