We enjoyed a lazy start to our day. Julie was still in recovery, so was allowed to sleep-in while I went to the breakfast room early to do some ‘blogging’. Our Hotel/Pension is really nice called ‘Hotel am Schanenteich’ after the small swan lake just at the end of our narrow cobbled laneway. We are two of only about six guests in all. It is past tourist season, and apart from the cool weather , it is great not being crowded out by tourists.
We were keen to make the most of our visit to Luther’s city, but at the same time get some rest and recovery. When we came into Wittenberg yesterday, we had just passed 2000k for the journey that started in Frankfurt some seven weeks ago. We have a mere five days of cycling remaining. We reflect every day on how amazing our cycle journey has been. It will be sad when it comes to an end.
We walked to the western end of town, via the central market square. We find the Market Square stunning every time we pass through. Today it looked glorious, especially the sight of the twin towers of the town church of St Mary’s standing tall over the village. The Renaissance Town Hall, built after 1523, is regarded as one of the finest in this region of Germany. Statues to Luther and his compatriot Philipp Melanchthon stand large in the square. The town church (St Mary’s) is the tallest and oldest building in the town, having stood for more than 600 years.
Two narrow cobbled main streets lead to the Palace Church (Schlosskirche) which stands at what was one of the three main entry gates into the old city. The city gates and wall have long since been removed. Building of the Palace together with the Church began from 1489, and by 1503 it became the University Church. It was on the large northern doors of this Church to which Luther nailed his document containing his 95 ‘positions’ of contention with what had become the conventional teaching and practices of the church, which Luther maintained was contrary to the truths of the Holy Scriptures.
It was quite unbelievable to find ourselves standing outside these very famous doors. The current doors are not the original doors, but have since been replaced by bronze doors inscribed with the words of Luther’s 95 theses. Luther was a Monk, and lecturer Professor at the Wittenberg University. He probably didn’t fully comprehend the impact of his actions that day in 1517. The ‘posting’ of a notice of debate on the door was apparently not an uncommon practice in those days. Luther was basically inviting debate from his academic and religious colleagues as to the positions he was prescribing. Things took a much different course, especially as a copy was sent to the Pope in Rome. The rest is history. He was excommunicated, and fortunately avoided the stake which had been the treatment measured out to some of his reformer predecessors such as Jan Hus.
The tower of the Palace Church dominates the western skyline. One of Luther’s most famous hymns “A safe stronghold our God still is, a trusty shield and weapon" (The great hymn actually starts "A Mighty Fortress is our God, a Bulwark Never Failing’) is inscribed in German in very large letters around the exterior of the dome of the tower.
It was an honour to escape from the cold and visit inside the church, and to stand beside the final resting place of Martin Luther. The church was lovely, but not overdone as many churches of this era. However, the stained glass windows were magnificent, and the carving in the timber pews, pulpit and other furnishings was nothing less than magnificent. Each pew had a uniquely engraved shield on the end facing the aisle. There were probably 60 large pews. No two carvings were the same, possibly reflecting family seating plans.
The day was slipping away. We wandered the length of the town from the west end to the east end to the house where Luther lived for many years with his wife, children, other extended family and numerous boarding students of Luthers. Along the way we enjoyed the sheer beauty of the historic houses and shops, many of which have stood since Luther himself strolled the cobbled streets.
The very large ‘Lutherhaus’ was the original monastery which Luther joined as a young Monk when he moved to Wittenberg in 1508, also becoming professor of Bible studies at Wittenberg University by 1512. With the closure of the Monastery, Luther was granted ownership of the building which became the extended family home for the remainder of his life.
It was incredible therefore to spend time in the house which is now a museum to Luther’s life. To dwell in his living room/study, where he no doubt spent many hours on his own. However, this room was also the place where people gathered with him for debate and discussion, something that Luther valued and encouraged. In this study/living room, you could almost feel the atmosphere of the very studious Luther, but also the Luther who loved having large numbers of guests in the evening, sitting around the rather large room with its very large fireplace still in the corner, discussion and debating theology with his guests and students.
On display was one of the original “Indulgences Chests” which were a common feature in most pre-Lutheran churches, where parishioners would place their hard earned money for the issue of a written ‘indulgence’ absolving them of some sin or covering them with promises of God’s forgiveness and assurance of mercies. This of course became abhorrent to Luther who fought against this, ultimately leading to the Protestant Reformation.
It was also fascinating to go to the furthest point of the old town east end, which was just outside the long removed ‘Elster Gate’ by which we entered Wittenberg yesterday from the Elbe cycleway. It was here, just outside the former gate, where an oak tree has been planted in Luther’s honour. It was here outside the gate where traditionally the clothes of those who had died were taken for burning. Luther, who did not do anything without significant meaning, chose this same spot for the burning of a copy of the Canon Law and also the Papal Bull threatening him with excommunication. The significance of this act at the time would have had significant meaning and impact. The ‘Luther Oak’ now marks this spot, commemorating what was a most courageous if not provocative act.
Our final visit for the day was to the town Church of St Mary, where Luther did the majority of his preaching, and was primarily based after he left the Monastery in 1524 for marriage to Katharina von Bora, a former Nun. The church has essentially stood since the late 1400’s, despite the ravages of history. It is the church that is most closely associated with the Protestant Reformation, being used for the ordination of Priests under the new Protestant Church from as early as the late 1520’s. The twin towers of the Church of St Mary are the tallest spires in Wittenberg, and are visible for miles around on any approach to Wittenberg. In fact as we approached via the Elbe Cycleway from the south-east, the only visible sights of the Wittenberg skyline were the three towers of the town’s two churches associated with the name of Martin Luther.
It was a wonderful visit to Wittenberg. We have loved the experience very much indeed. By the end of day we were preparing our panniers for the final assault on Berlin, a trip of some 150km, which we will do over two days of cycling keeping in mind that dawn is now about 7am and darkness has rolled in well before 5pm. Tomorrow we leave behind the great Elbe River and cut across country to reach Berlin from the south.
This has been a great day for reflection. As we walked the cobbled streets of Wittenburg, we were always conscious that these were probably some of the same cobblestones over which Luther and his students and compatriots walked as they went about their daily business. It was a great time again to reflect on the wonder of God's grace, and thanks to Luther, the Protestant Church was founded on the all sufficiency of God's grace. Through Luther, boxes in the churches for the receiving of payments for the remission of sins and seeking of other mercies were dispensed with forever. Instead, fresh emphasis was brought to the all sufficiency of Gods grace, with Luther bringing fresh focus on the eternal truths of the scriptures that we are saved by this grace only through faith, not by any other means.
As St Paul wrote to the Corinthian church, quoting the words of Christ to him "My grace is sufficient for you....." (2 Corinthians 12:9).
As we prepare for rest tonight for the final night on the River Elbe, in the beautiful village of Wittenberg, with the weather forecast for rain for our run to Berlin starting tomorrow, we rest knowing this all sufficiency of God's grace is freely available to us all.
With all our love......Kelvin and Julie
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