Our stay at the lovely 'Pension' at Kirckestrasse 7 was all too brief. The elderly couple who greeted two weather beaten cyclists who took them by surprise the previous afternoon could not have been more elegant examples of christian grace. We did not get their names. They spoke not a word of english, but they doted over us as if we were family guests. We could not even take off our muddy shoes as they showed us to our private room upstairs in their beautiful, ancient home just off the historic town square (Markt). The breakfast was beautifully prepared for us in a private room with the best cutlery. There was far too much to eat, and then the lady very lovingly insisted that we use everything for our lunch. They charged us only 40 Euro, but we insisted on adding to that in view of the grace offered to us. It was about 8:45am when we gathered out front for the obligatory departure photo. They own a tiny three wheeled bus, not really any bigger than my bike with luggage, which advertises their 'Pension'. It was a very public goodbye. They asked for a copy of the photo. Anyone travelling to Belgern - stay at Kirckestrasse 7.
A mere two doors down the street (Kirckestrasse) stood the beautiful and historic St Bartholomew's church where history records that the great Martin Luther preached in 1522. We have entered Luther country. Everything is about Luther. It is amazing that after 450 years, a church is known because Luther preached there once!
The entire village is cobbled with stones that are virtually impossible for cyclists with heavy loads like us. We rolled up into the main market square to take a few photos. History records town rivally used to exist between Belgern and the next town on our route this morning, Torgau. Apparently the good citizens of Torgau were jealous enough to one night sneak into Belgern and steal the famous 'Roland' statue that was erected outside the town hall. They were apprehended before they got too far (it is a very large statue) and in the mellee, the toe section of the left foot of the statue was broken off. The statue was repaired and put back in its place, but apparently the town decreed that from that day forth, any citizen from Torgau who visited Belgern had to first show penance by biting the left big toe of the Roland statue!
We rolled out of town knowing we had a full day ahead, being some 80k to Wittenburg. We were also behind time due to the delayed breakfast and the brief tourist tour of Belgern. We had only gone a mere 4k before entering the cute little village of Dobeltitz where we met the local farmer. He could not speak english, but was delighted to greet and speak with us. He was very chatty even though he knew we didn't understand a word he spoke, although he chatted as if we did. I wanted a photo of the old historic vegetable storehouse, and when he saw this, he insisted on showing me into it and explaining what he does with his vegetables through winter. Then he insisted we follow him up a steep embankment behind the earth covered storehouse. We wondered where he was taking us, but he proudly showed us his beautiful sheep! We were only 4k along the track and conscious of losing time, but this kind of graciousness is hard to avoid.
We expected to be on flat ground all day today. Although the path generally follows the river, the path can sometimes wind its way distances through farms, forests and even hills. Today though we were cycling mostly through open, flat farm country with occasional forests. The rural land is a beautiful sight to behold, especially when we see the farmers at work in their fields.
As we approached the tiny village of Wessnig, across vast flat fields of freshly sown winter crop which was just appearing above the ground, we were looking for the sights of the steeple of what we thought was the only dedicated Cyclists Church in Germany. We were some 2k short of the village when the beautiful spire began to show its head above the lovely trees that surrounded the village. These views are irresistable for travellers such as ourselves!
So this is it - the dedicated Cyclists Church. They obviously didn't expect any Cyclists today - it was Monday, traditional Pastor's day off, but the gates to the church grounds were locked. Perhaps they heard that two Australians were coming, and decided to lock the place up just to be safe. In any case, we enjoyed the thought of a dedicated Cyclists church, although later today we passed a second one.
At about the 15k mark we came to the small historic Renaissance city of Torgau. The cycleway just skirted the edge of the city on the edge of the River Elbe, but it took us right under the beautiful ancient Hatenfels Palace. Torgau is a museum town of beautiful Renaissance buildings, having been the seat of the Saxony Electors in the 16th century. To pass by the beautiful Palace was a wonderful moment in our day. The cycleway squeezed its way between the Palace and the bank of the River Elbe.
As we squeezed our way around the Palace on the river's edge, we came upon another significant monument erected adjacent to the Palace overlooking the River. This monument marked the spot where in March 1945 the Ukranian soldiers fighting for the advancing Red Army from the east met with the advancing American Army from the west, prior to the imminent ending of all hostilities of WW2 in Europe. Ultimately, Saxony became part of the Soviet controlled East Germany, and lived under the Communist regime for the next 45 years.
We moved on from Torgau, following the cycleway that wound its way through many small villages built close to the Elbe River. Passing through the village of Mockritz, we came apon this beautiful village church. It was a stunningly beautiful church with its surrounding graveyard. Two of the faithfuls from the congregation were obviously giving their Monday morning to a 'working bee'. They suspiciously eyed me over as I took photos of the church. One thing that really took my attention though, was the sight of the large Iron Cross on the monument inside the church cemetery. It was in German, but I could distinctly make out the words of memorial to the soldiers from the village who gave their lives fighting for Germany in WW1 and also WW2. This is a very rare sight on our travels. We have passed through hundreds of villages, most with churches and graveyards, but I don't think we have seen another memorial of this kind to German soldiers who died in the war. These are a typical sight in virtually every town in Australia.
Our ride today was mostly on the left bank of the River Elbe. However, we eventually had to cross over to the right bank by a small ferry that was marked on our map just north of the village of Pretzch. It was approaching midday. We are never assured that the ferries would be operating. Some close down due to lack of demand from tourists and winter traffic. However, it was a sheer delight to approach the river from afar to see that the ferry has just docked on our side. On the long approach to the ferry though, we passed this beautiful rural Palace which dated back to 1571, built on a site that had been fortified since the 10th century. Today the Palace is a children's home, which seems very fitting.
We were the ferry pilot's only passengers. The fee was a reasonable 3 Euro. He did not speak English, but we knew he was asking if he could take our photo together on his ferry. We gladly obliged. He proudly showed his photo to Julie with a very large grin of pride, showing how he not only got his ferry sign in the photo, but also the background of Pretsch Palace in the background. Perhaps he is in the wrong profession!
It was then time for lunch. Despite our late, slow start, we had somehow picked up the schedule. It was about 12:30 and we had done almost 50k, with about 30k remaining. As we made the approach to the little village of Kleindroben, where we had to turn left without going into the village, we came across the wonderful covered picnic area with a view of the village pond. It was perfect. However, we didn't delay because once we stopped cycling we quickly realised just how cold, and windy, it was. It was about 6 degrees, but the wind made it feel very icy, although the sun was also trying to break through the morning cloud cover. We enjoyed our rolls with meats, cheeses and brewed hot chocolate on milk all supplied lovingly by our hosts at the 'Pension' Kirckestrasse 7 at Belgern.
There are so many churches in Germany. Virtually every village and town has one if not several. This one was built along the river, but was all out on its own. Julie kept cycling ahead while I wheeled my heavy bike through a rough paddock to capture this photo.
I know we said it was cold, but the sun finally blasted through. It didn't feel any warmer, but it was a rare pleasure to actually see our shadows again after what seems like many, many weeks. It is also starting to become windmill country. This is not the first of these we have started to see. Perhaps an influence trickling down now that we are getting closer to Holland.
We were closing on Wittenberg. The Elbe River was lost to us, but we just kept our eyes peeled on the Elbe cycleway signs that wound us through tiny villages, along the dyke alongside the Elbe, then away through farms, over busy roads, but eventually we knew we were on the long, open final run into the great city of Wittenberg, the city of Martin Luther the Catholic Monk who changed the course of the history of the Christian Church by his strong, theological stand against the practices and beliefs of the Catholic Church of the time in the early 16th century. We thought it was quite incredible therefore that as we approached Wittenburg across the flat open river plains, a beautful colourful rainbow filled the sky. It had not rained, and in fact the sun had been shining. However, the rainbow was wonderful. Despite our keeness to get into Wittenberg by just after 3pm, we could not pass up the photo opportunity.
This was a long range shot - the unmistakable towers of the two important Wittenberg churches in the life of MArtin Luther and also the history of the Christian Church - the outstanding tower of the Palace Church on the left, where Luther hammered his 95 'theses' (his positional statements correcting the then teaching of the church), and the twin towers of the town church of St Mary where Luther did most of his preaching, and from which church the Protestant movement was birthed.
It was therefore nothing short of thrilling to finally ride our bikes into the main market square of the great city of Wittenberg. The streets were entirely cobbled, but there was no way we were not riding right up to the main square and the famous town hall.
The hotel in which we expected to find accommodation had amazingly just closed down for the winter! However, we found a lovely Hotel/Pension just off the main square. It was now very cold, and after showering and getting unpacked, the darkness and much more cold had rolled in. We were happy to be in and safely at Wittenberg, where tomorrow we will have the whole day to explore and discover more of the history and the story of the Reformation brought about by the stand of one very commited Monk, MArtin Luther.
It has been a truly great day. Sadly, Julie has not been well now for a few days having struggled with a serious 'lurgy' which has not left her along. However she has bravely stuck to it today on the bike, making the 80k through some very strong windy sessions as well as the biting cold at times, like a champion. We enjoyed an early dinner and the early mark to bed, with views of the twin towers of the town church of St Mary filling our bedroom windows.
Martin Luther felt strongly he needed to bring fresh emphasis to the work of grace that is all of God, that there is nothing we need do to earn or justify the free offer of God's love and grace to us. This came against the teaching of the church of the time, that sought payments of money in order to basically purchase the favour of God. From the church we could see through our bedroom windows, MArtin Luther would have frequently preached from the text of St Paul to the church at Rom - "
Therefore, since we have been justified by faith, we have peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ. Through him we have also obtained access by faith into this grace in which we stand, and we rejoice in hope of the glory of God". (Romans 5:1-2)
As we rest tonight in view of the great River Elbe for the final time, we rest knowing that God's love and grace is freely available to all of us.
From the city of MArtin Luther, Wittenberg, Saxony Germany we send our love
Kelvin and Julie
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