Day 58 - 14 November 2012 - Wertheim to Aschaffenburg - 78k

We woke to a very cold and foggy morning. It was barely above zero degrees, and didn't promise to get much warmer through the day. Fortunately it was neither windy nor raining, but apart from the cold temperatures, it had potential to be a nice day if only the sun could break through. We hoped in vain!

Breakfast at the Hotel Schwan was a civilised affair which we enjoyed very much. By the time we had the bikes loaded out the front of the Hotel, it was close to 9am. The fog was thick, blocking the river from a clear view, and the temperature was barely 2 degrees as we rolled away towards the bridge that spanned the River Main. For the first time I was wearling my serious winter gloves which were purchased for me by Sarah-Jane in Prague. They were needed all day. The conditions were akin to an 'ice box'.

We crossed to the right bank of the River Main which gave us good views back across the river to the village of Wertheim, with the faint outline of the great Burg Wertheim sitting high and mysterious through the fog above the town. A beautiful long river boat came graciously into view. As we stood astride our bikes in the enveloping cold, we could see the passengers in the warmth on the boat enjoying their breakfast while watching two crazy cyclists in near freezing conditons staring at them from the far bank . The passengers all distinctivelt appeared envious that they chose the comforts of the boat rather than the challenge of the touring bike. We could see all this in their faces....

Despite the intense cold, it was a very pleasant ride today. The river was always in view or never far away. The cycleway wound its way through farms, along paths to the edge of numerous villages, or through parks and small forested sections never lacking in the colours of autumn. The fog never looked like lifting. The river seemed to have a strong hold on the thick wall of fog that seemed to hang heavily in the valleys as the river went through its many twists and turns through the high walled mountains either side of the river.

 We passed through many riverside villages as the morning progressed. Our initial target for the morning was Miltenberg at the 35k mark. We knew we were looking at about 76k for the day. Miltenberg was not even half way, but it seemed to be the major town of the morning. The towns were pretty although many were hard to see due to the fog. Lining the river on both sides were colourful forests of elms and oaks with their yellow, orange and brown leaves, looking spectacular. There were also continuous vineyards today along the high banks of the river.

We passed many paddocks today with herds of dairy cows. There were very contended cows, not even showing the basic courtesy of standing up for us when we came along. Perhaps they didn't want to stir up their milk. Some looked so full with milk that it was not surprising they could not stand when we came along.

Miltonberg was a spectacular place. We stopped to take a photo of the historic 'tor' on the bridge when we were confronted by a very long line of swans to welcome us! I think they thought we must have come bearing food, so we were sorry to disappoint them. The scenery here was spectacular. It would have been great to linger for a while, but as soon as we stopped cycling the cold wanted to wrap us up in a freezing blanket, so we had to bid farewell to the reception committee of swans and ducks and find our way further along the river to a warm coffee shop!

 Although cold, it wasn't too unpleasant unless we stopped cycling for more than a minute or so. Julie's computer was showing it to be 5 degrees but it felt much colder. Fortunately, as we kept saying, there was neither wind nor rain otherwise it could have been potentially quite miserable. This was another former city gate as we headed further along the river.

Leaving the greater boundaries of Miltenberg required some funny twists and turns in the cycle track. It took us, however, over a small country bridge with this magnificent statue looking both lonely and cold as he took his place in a prime position on the bridge. We stopped to show interest, but also enjoyed the beautiful views both ways from the sides of the bridge.

 

 It wouldn't be a day on a cycleway without the occasional railway crossing. It was great to see the wonderful German trains again after being through other countries. The German trains are modern, the red country trains looking resplendant as numerous dashed past us today. This photo just caught the speeding train as Julie waited at the closed railway crossing.

As we crossed the River Main from left bank to right bank again, we could just see the outline of the magnificent Kloster Engelberg high on the opposite hill overlooking the village of Glossheubach. Despite the blanket of fog, it was a superbly beautiful sight from below.

 From the bridge over the River Main, the sights to the village of Grossheubach through the fog and across the ponds alongside the river made spectacular viewing.

 The temperatures probably peaked at about five degrees and then started to descend again into the afternoon. We made excellent time, the kilometres just ticking over as we approached Obernburg with less than 20k to Aschaffenburg. We did not bother with lunch today, but decided on a snack break before making the final assault on the remaining 20k. We didn't stay here for long. The cold was very intense. Even the M&M's seemed to be nearly frozen!

 We hugged the left bank of the river until we could see the wonderful outline on the far horizon of the magnificent Schloss (Palace) Johannisburg. It was a faint outline through the fog that still hung low. We waited until we were crossing the massive 'Willigisbrucke' (bridge) across the river into Aschaffenburg for the photo of the great castle which is still very much in superb condition. Built in the 17th century, it is home today to the largest state collection of paintings outside of Munich, the palace museum and the world's largest collection of cork architectural models. The spires of the beautiful Basilica also dominated the skyline on our approach to the city where we would be staying for the night.

 

We followed the signs to Tourist Information Centre which took us all the way through the village to the building next to the great Palace. We managed to secure a Hotel room for the night at a surpringly reasonable amount which again includes breakfast. We could not resist a final photo of the Palace knowing that it would soon be dark, and at first light we would be hitting the road for our final day of our bicycle tour of Europe. The temperature was showing just on five degrees, but if you stood still for long the cold would just close over you. We didn't hang about. It had been a great day on the road, but we looked forward to a very warm, long shower!

Today, despite the intense cold, has been a superb day of cycling along the River Main. The scenes were beautiful, the ancient villages simply stunning. With sunshine, the sights would have been superb and unforgettable. The bikes just seemed to roll by temselves. There were no dramas, no getting lost, no rush to beat the darkness, no cringing due to unbearable cold. It was a very blessed day. Tomorrow is our final day. It is hard to believe that 59 days ago we stood outside the IBIS Hotel in Frankfurt ready to ride away on a massive adventure. That adventure is one day short of culminating with a return to that same IBIS Hotel, completing a very long circuit.

Like the Psalmist, we have sensed the blessing and protection of the Lord's invisible yet powerful hand upon us at all times. The Psalmist says it well "He will cover you with his feathers, and under his wings you will find refuge; his faithfulness will be your shield and protection. (Psalm 91:4).

We feel strongly this to be the case for us as well. As we rest tonight, we rest knowing the faithfulness of God is a constant with us.

From the edge of the River Main in the beautiful town of Aschaffenburg, we send our love. When we wake tomorrow, we will dress in our lyca for the very final time on this tour, with the intention of resting in Frankfurt tomorrow night.

With all our love....Kelvin and Julie