The night went by rather quickly. We arrived by train in Wurzburg late yesterday at 6pm. It was dark. We didn't get to see anything of this beautiful city on the River Main which has much to offer. Wurzburg is actually at the top end of the 'Romantic Road' (or strasse) which runs for some 430k between Wurzburg to Fussen almost to the Swiss border to the south. In our first few weeks we cycled some of it, joining at Bad Mergentheim (just south of Wurzburg) and turning off when we reached Donauworth on the Danube River, from where we turned east and followed the Danube all the way to Budapest.
Our plan today was simply to get to Wertheim, another very beautiful medieval town further along the River Main. To follow the river would be more than 100k which we did not have time especially given the short 'winter' days now. The river to Wertheim follows a long peninsular in the river (a bit like the shape of a finger). We were keen to cut across country, and initially intended to ride the river for some 20k north, then cut across by a country road to the western side of the 'pensinsular', and then follow the river path to Wertheim, keeping the route to about 65k for the day.
However, the receptionist at the Hotel advised us to go the 'direct' route from Wurzburg to Wertheim (basically across the base of the finger). She made it sound simple, direct and also fast (about 30k). She even printed a Google map with the road route all marked for us. We took her advice, also thinking it would allow us a slower start for the day, having time to loiter our way as we passed through the village market square of Wurzburg.
The day dawned. It was dense with fog. It was cold, down close to zero at dawn. We were okay with that, although disappointed that photos today would be all white due to the heavy fog. So we took the obligatory photo out front of the Hostel, and walked our way slowly through the village market centre, enjoying the views of the ancient buildings, albeit a bit covered in thick fog.
Wurzburg is very pretty, although we found the market place very busy with people, trams and vehicle traffic. We were headed for the Alte Mainbrucke, the ancient sandstone bridge that would lead us across the River Main and toward the main road (No 8) that would take us to Wertheim.
The bridge was beautiful, but you can see how thick was the fog. It hugged the cold river and almost completely blocked from view the beautiful Fortress Marienburg that sat perched high above the town. We were quite disappointed.
Looking back to the town, we could just make out the tall spires of the magnificent 11th century Neumunster Basilica and the 11th century Dom St Kilian.
We passed over the bridge a little disappointed of the lack of view and especially the lack of decent photographs. We took some side streets on our way to pick up the main road (No 8) for Wertheim as per our guidance from the Hostel. We were a little concerned at how heavy the traffic was, and how 'main' the road looked. It immediately climbed for 2k or so, something we didn't anticipate. We were fit though from several days off the bikes. Julie attacked the long hill with a vengeance, but it concerned us that this was a very significant road carrying very busy traffic. Over the long hill (now at the height of the massive Fortress which we still could not see), the road continued west. There was no bike path, and no apron on which to ride. We realised we were on a major highway, and quite possibly an expressway. We struggled on for several more kilometres, but the road only got more frantic. There was another very long incline over another hill, and then it became very obvious that we were headed toward a merging motorway! There was no bike path, no side roads, and we had no map except a small print from a Google page from the Hostel receptionist. She had obviously never ridden a bike in her life!
We had to stop. We couldn't go on, and we dared not go back. However, we knew the inevitable but which would basically ruin our day and our plan to be at Frankfurt in twodays. By going back, we could no longer have time to cycle to Wertheim via the river route. If we stayed on the road, we were in serious difficulty - it was a motorway with 6 lanes and no apron for cycling. Cars were already beeping to warn us off. We had no choice but to turn back, but in turning back we had to ride what seemed to be an even busier return route. It was a painful predicament, one which could easily robbed us of our joy (perhaps it was dimmed for a period!). We walked our way to the return carriageway of the highway, and had little choice but to hold the edge while cars sped by often too close for comfort. It was a 'hairy' ride. At one point the carriageway split into two - we needed the left split which meant crossing the busy lanes to get there.
Anyway, we made it back to the bridge at Wurzburg feeling more than a little deflated, and wondered what our options were now. The sun, however, had begun to break through making some of the same photos from the same bridge a whole lot more clear! Compare this with the one from similar position some 1-2 hours earlier.
The beautiful Fortress Marienberg was now appearing from behind the fog, looking quite resplenant now as it perched above the river. The river was now looking its majestic wonder, with the vineyards fronting the hillsides of the Fortress now becoming visible. The reflection in the river was a touch of class to an otherwise disappointing start to the day.
We had little choice but to get to the railway station to enquire if it was possible to 'train it' to Wertheim. This would at least keep us on schedule. Passing back through the market place of Wurzburg was an altogether different picture now than earlier. The ancient buildings were glorious if not spectacular in the central market square.
It was not the way we wanted to go to Wertheim, being our final three days of cycling before leaving for home, but we managed to get tickets for a train that would go to Lauda where we would need to change for a train which would take us to Wertheim. We resigned ourselves to no further cycling for today, and sat happily in the sunshine at the Wurzburg railway station for the two hour experience to get ourselves to Wertheim. It meant carrying the bikes back up those stairs (!) and then facing the huge lift to the train carriage. Note the photo - the floor level of the train is at least waist height, making it an extremely difficult manouvre with very heavily loaded bikes. Suffice it to say, we managed but not without great difficulty.
Happy faces. The train journey is actually very enjoyable. We loved watching the German countryside flying by, especially the beautiful villages surrounded by streams and green fields.
On the train the Wertheim, we were actually right at the front just behind the driver. He was a good guy, even jumping out to help Julie lift her bike up the 4-5 levels into the train. The sights of Wertheim at 2:30pm in the afternoon we simply stunning. We were suddenly overjoyed by being 'forced' to come by train. Wertheim is a beautiful medieval village built below a high mount on top of which had been built the magnificent 'Burg Wertheim' at least 500yrs old. Arriving by train so early in the afternoon gave us a few hours of daylight to really explore this gloriously historic old river town.
By the time we got out of the train, the fog was starting to roll in again. However, we went straight for the Information Centre, sorted ourselves into the beautiful Schwan Hotel with River views, and set out with a map of the town to explore its marvellous history. It was very cold though, probably a mere 3-4 degrees. Fortunately there was neither wind nor rain. The Hotel sat between the 13th century Maintor (city gate) and the 13th century 'Pointed Tower' which was not only a watchtower for the town but also doubled as a gaol for "drunkards" and "shrews".
The main central market place was nothing short of an historical museum. As cold as it was and getting colder, it did nothing to curb our desire to keep exploring. In the distance we could see the 'Burg' keeping watch on the village from a great height.
After visiting the 14th century Collegiate (stiftskircke) Church at the base of the mountain and the edge of the village, we climbed the long cobbled path that led up to the ancient Castle that has looked over and protected the village of Wertheim for at least 6 centuries. It was surprisingly extensive and although these days classified as 'ruins', it still contains a restaurant and biergarten which unfortunately for us was already closed for the winter (we were keen on coffee, of course!). The views however were worth the long, steep climb to the top.
Looking back over the town, the blanket of incoming fog made the view even more beautiful if not mysterious.
This photo was taken into the western sun, doing its best to burn through the ever thickening fog which by all accounts was winning the battle for the town.
The cold was also winning the day, so we made our way back over the steep, narrow, cobbled road into the heart of the village. The tiny shops were wonderful. We stopped in for coffee to also enjoy the warmth of being inside. We also passed a small camera shop. My trusty NIKON that has followed me in my pocket in my bike shirt for many years now finally 'died' en route to Berlin. We saw its replacement in the window and walked out having a new NIKON with twice the zoom and the 'grunt' of its predecessor. It had been a successful visit to this magnificent medieval built many centuries agon on the convergeance of the Tauber and the Main Rivers. Walking past this very ancient door, we wondered yet again what stories it could tell of life in the magnificent village.
Despite our disappointing start to the day, it finished really well. We were disappointed to miss the sights along the river between Wurzburg and Wertheim. We were certainly disappointed in ourselves for accepting daft advice and ending up on a busy motorway. However, if it wasn't for these disappointments, we would not have arrived at Wertheim with the time available to explore and experience the history contained in the village of Wertheim. By day's end, it was probably more satisfying than what we had planned.
We sat in the tiny Hotel restaurant for dinner reflecting on the day. We were a very grateful couple, grateful to the good Lord for the blessings that are ours betond what we can see or anticipate. As we dined on 'Ox Liver, veges and mashed potato' (a very German dish) and 'pork shoulder and potato dumpling' (also a local dish), we were grateful yet again that despite our errors of judgement, the invisible hand of the one who put the stars in their place was again active in our affairs today.
The Psalmist knew this, which is why he exclaims the faith which is in his heart when he says "Let everything that has breath praise the Lord" (Psalm 150:6). Thats how we feel tonight.
As we rest tonight in a magnificent room overlooking the River Main, along which we will cycle tomorrow, we want to let our breath praise the Lord for the work of His hand in our lives today.
With love from the edge of the River Main in the ancient and beautiful village of wertheim, we send our love.
Kelvin and Julie.
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