Day 44 - 31 October 2012 - Prague to Roudnice - 85k

We were up before dawn to get ourselves organised for what was promising to be a big day. Firstly, it is never easy or straight forward to negotiate your way out of big cities such as Prague. Much time is lost. Secondly, we anticipated a very cold day. The forecast said we would be riding into snow some 80k west of Prague along the Elbe River. Finally, the reports from our trusty track map indicated numerous places where the track surface was very poor. If they say poor, it is very poor indeed. The two days we spent in Prague were freezing, so especially for the bike journey ahead we purchased decent gloves woolen socks just in case. It was a great final night at the Hotel Elf. We dined 'in' again, and prepared our own breakfast. By 8am we were lugging our bikes and gear down the 50 steps from the reception to the street level, and we were all packed for the photo by 8:15am.

 We managed the ride over cobbled side streets and made it to the Vltava River, just north of the Hostel. We joined the track which wound its way along the river which did a massive 'S' bend for about 8k before straightening and heading towards its ultimate convergence with the mighty Elbe River some 40k to the north west at the pretty village of Melnik. Leaving Prague we passed this amazing 'Trojan House' which qualified for the photo album! For many miles we never lost sight of the enormous St Vitus Cathedral perched on Prague's Castle hill, until we finally turned away from Prague on our way to the Elbe River.

 The threats of snow and cold were never realised. It turned out to be a cold but sunny day. It was 4 degrees leaving Prague, and although it may have reached ten by midday, it was basically a typical, beautiful winter's day in Canberra. The cycling kept us warm, and I spent the morning, for example, without any gloves at all. Once we cleared Prague, the path was initially great, and the views along the Vltava were stunning if not beautiful.

 It all changed within a few kilometres! For those who have cycled this track, they will never forget this horror stretch. The track suddenly turned to rock and mud for quite some kilometres. It was nothing short of appaling. The book warned us of a 'poor surface' but we expected nothing like this. We had already worked out an alternate route, but this did not start until we got through this horror stretch. The photos hardly do justice. It was mud and rock, which probably centuries ago was laid as a cobbled road using very large blocks. The blocks were now seriously exposed, and extremely dangerous for cycling. The workmen were working on the track, but it made no difference for us. We managed to get through on our narrow profile tyres and weighted bikes. It was a miracle that we managed to ride through it, bouncing, slipping and sliding and none of us falling off, although we had many close shaves. The water was just to our left.

 After the horror section, we came to a pretty part of the river with a turn off up to the hilltop village of Klecany which the book suggested as an alternative route to avoid more of the same horror surface and which is dangerously close to the river bank. We turned up the hill which turned out to be a very serious hill climb of about 1-2k at least 10% gradient. It took no time for the hearts to be pumping, the legs grinding and the gears clicking down. SJ was away and got a great head start in the belief that she could outpace her aging father to the top. I saw the breakaway, and kept her in check most of the way from 50 metres behind but was amazed at how the legs of youth could keep propelling her on her loaded bike. It was a good hit-out for me with my 45kgs of bike and load, feeling the benefit of 2000k's of intense training in Europe. It was a serious climb, winding its way up and up with no signs of a hilltop through the dense forest and buildings.The gap was closing and almost closed, but it will be left to eternity as to whether the daughter beat the father, or whether the father feels he just ran out of hill! We stopped at the hilltop village square, the only sound filling the morning air was the pounding of healthy hearts and the heavy breathing of two very sweaty cyclists. Official result SJ by a bike length (with a weight advantage!).

 We were now quite high in altitude, and could feel the difference in the very cold air. We were on a beautiful farmland plateau, having left the bike path behind and now on rural and farm roads through beautiful fields and paddocks. The scenery was stunning in every direction. We rode through several small Czech villages, a privilege really. We were off the tourist route. No one spoke English, and we felt almost intrusive as we rolled our bikes through these typical rural Czech countryside villages and farms.

The road eventually turned downhill by a narrow path from the village of Vodochody through some of the most stunning forest that we have see. The path was covered by a carpet of thick, wet golden leaves from the dense forest, almost making the durface dangerous as we allowed the bikes to sweep down, looping from left to right as the track curled its way downhill to the river again. The sights were beautiful and passed all too quickly for us.

 Joining the river at the bottom, we were back on bad track again, although not as bad as before. The surface was cobbled with large rocks which must surely have been a very old original pathway for carts pulled by horses. The track was seriously close to the river some 2 metres below us which kept us alert as we negotiated our way along the rivers edge while at the same time enjoying the views across the river but also the beautiful forest high to our right hand side.

 With most of the bad track sections behind us (we thought), the countryside continued to be stunning. We turned away from the river for a while, winding through farms and small villages which gave us some beautiful views everywhere we looked. At one point we shared the path with a young lady riding a most beautiful horse. Despite the encroaching winter conditions, we chose the right time to cycle through Europe. This trip would have been no where as memorable without the experience of the golden autumn leaves that have tracked with us since our first day. We have progressively watched the colours of autumn close over Europe during our previous seven weeks. It is stunning.

 All out on its own, we came through the trees of the forest to find this stunningly beautiful country manor with its own river running alongside.

 Arriving at the riverside town of Luzec, we had a decision to make (which was easy really). If we didn't take the little ferry to cross the river, we would be facing a 'Pipeline Bridge' a few kilometres further on which had a flight of steel stairs on both ends of the bridge to negotiate. We were hoping the ferry would be operating because we did not enjoy the prospect of lifting our bikes up four flights of steep steel stairs, twice! As we turned the bend in the river we could see the little boat tied up across the river. We rolled down the dirt track to the edge of the river where there was a small bell, and written in Czech it said "ring for 3 secs". So we pushed it for 3 seconds, and almost instantly a young guy came out of his little river house across the river, and brought his little barge across to collect us. We just managed to fit into his little boat, which was only powered by the speed of the current, and a cable to a pulley. The boatsman simply changed the direction of his manually operated rudder, and the current of the river propelled the boat across the river, suspended by the pulley. It was an amazing experience. We had beaten the Pipeline Bridge with its nasty stair cases!

Our joy was short lived! We rode out of Luzec on what was the 'alternative path', but which turned us into a paddock with barely a track at all. We rode through this for some 2-3k at times not even certain it was a 'track'any longer, except it was rutted although covered with grass. Being damp it was also slippery and soft and muddy. Again, how we managed to ride our loaded bikes through this defied all logic. Even SJ with her 38C tyres had difficulty, slipping and sliding. We were almost through, when it has to be admitted that the great tour leader KA went down with a thump on what was fortunately a soft landing. The wheels slipped sideways, and being locked into the pedals there is no way out of it. The bike is heavy, but the fall only hurt the pride!

 The grassed paddock option was still better than these stairs, both ends! This was a very long bridge, The photo does not show the other end. We preferred our ferry trip despite the paddock experience.

 We were closing on Melnik for lunch, where the two great rivers converged. Before we got there, the beautiful scenery returned. We cycled through many kilometres of this, as we followed the last few kilometres of the Vltava River.

 Despite the difficulties of the morning and the relatively slow progress due to the conditions of the track and exiting Prague, we were now making great time. It was 2pm, with only 30k to our ultimate destination. We were warm and comfortable on the bikes, and stopped for lunch with the beautiful Palace which adjoins the Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul at Melnik just across the River Elbe. The confluence of the rivers is in the far background of the photo. We were now on the banks of the River Elbe. We realised how cold it was when we stopped for lunch, despite the blue sky and sun. Nevertheless we enjoyed our typical lunch, even 'boiling the billy' and making our own coffee.

 We were aiming for the river bend town of Roudnice. We were confident that we could find a hotel, having looked at a few on the 'net' before leaving Prague. The afternoon was a very pleasant ride along the Elbe. The track was mostly good to great, with occasional patches of reasonably decent gravel. We just enjoyed the scenery, with ancient villages, old buildings and even what appeared to be a very ancient stone wall running for a long way along the opposite side of the river.

 The final run into Roudnice was along a beautiful part of the river. The sun was sinking, although it was only just after 4pm. It was an amazingly stunning sight as we could see the great bridge in the distance that indicated we were close to our destination for the evening.

It is always great to arrive. We had covered 85k today, which was a great day despite the complexities of the morning and especially the seriously bad track conditions in some parts. They are, however, soon forgotten. The sights today were stunning, and greater is promised for tomorrow.

We managed to get a great room at the Hotel Koruna, just off the river. Darkness rolled in very quickly. We enjoyed a brief walk around the darkened streets of this amazing town which has some very substantial buildings and from what we can see, some amazing history.

Today is 'hallowed eve' or as some may know - Halloween. It comes on the eve of 'All Saints Day' on the church calendar. However, we have passed another significant day on the church's calendar - 'Reformation Sunday' which for me is a far more important day that the trivialised celebration of these days where somehow the world is becoming captured by the idea of 'halloween'.

Reformation Sunday is usally the last Sunday of October, remembering the significance of the stand of Martin Luther who objected to the practices of the church of his day, affirming the truth that we cannot buy forgiveness or pay for privilege before God. Luther re-asserted the truth of the scripture that is really the foundation of Protestant theology, that we are 'saved by grace, through faith in our lord Jesus Christ'. Jan Hus was burned at the stake for his attempts to bring the church back to the essential truths. Luther was successful, and changed the course of church history, affirming the truth of St Paul when he wrote to the Christians at Ephasus "For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves. It is the gift of God" (Ephesians 2:8).

As we rest tonight on the banks of the River Elbe in Routnice, Czech Republic, we rest knowing that it is by God's grace and not by anything we do that can enjoy merit and favour with him.

Love from us - Kelvin, Julie and Sarah-Jane



Day 43 – 30 October 2012 - Prague

We rallied from a decent sleep, aiming for breakfast for 8:30am. We had met a lovely young couple from Oklahoma who were on their honeymoon, backpacking through Europe. We shared dinner with Jordan and Katie last night, or should I say we ate at the same table in the Hostel Elf enjoying wonderful conversation and swapping stories about travel, our respective countries and family life. They were leaving early this morning, and we wanted to be at breakfast early enough to say goodbye and wish them well. It was great meeting them, and making them feel welcome if ever they are in Australia or London.

We planned to do the ‘Free Walking Tour’ of Prague today, a mega three hour tour. Of course we know there is no such thing as a free tour. A ‘tip’ is expected. Usually, the tip is often just as good as the fixed charge for a tour but seems to be more attractive. It is certainly well patronized. They operate in many cities in Europe quite successfully.

After a slow breakfast, we wandered north to the Vltava River to do a ‘recce’ for our exit by bike tomorrow morning. The bike track would follow the Vltava River for quite some kilometres before joining the Elbe River which then runs through Germany and in to the North Sea eventually. It sounds simple, but the path is never straight forward, especially in the cities. It was freezing cold if not icy, barely above zero. We were not really looking forward to the cold cycling experience.

We made our way to the Old Town Square for the tour, but managed some ‘coffee’ time in a warm coffee shop on the square. At the advertised time, we joined a huge host of others for the tour, which they actually split up into three separate groups. Our group numbered about twenty. English speaking, it comprised Aussies, Americans, British and a scattering of others from around the world who preferred the English speaking group.

Our tour guide was an Aussie! Kate moved to Prague some 20 years ago to teach English, married a local and has now settled. She was very entertaining, and a walking encyclopedia on Czech history which made our tour quite fascinating. It was freezing of course, but we all persevered in the near zero conditions and we all lasted the full distance. It was great to meet other travelers, and especially make friends with other Aussies.

We shared the Old Town Square with hundreds of other people, and these lovely horse drawn carriages who for a mere 1,000 Czech Crowns or so would give you an old fashioned view of the beautiful city. We preferred the cheaper walking version.

This is the view of the beautiful Tyn Church. Kate pointed out the not-so-obvious, that the church towers were not built in equal proportion. For reasons known to the builders, one tower was built bigger than the other. Look closely as we did - it is true. She said one was the 'adam' tower and the other 'eve'. However, as we moved about town, we could see that this was a fairly common thing where multiple towers were concerned.

We lingered at the great statue to the Christian reformer Jan Hus, who was burned at the stake by the church in 1415 for his attempts to bring reform to the practices of the Catholic Church. He was 100 years before the German Martin Luther who is given the credit for the Protestant Reformation. However, the Czechs think differently, and happily claim Hus as the one who began the Protestant Reformation. The very large statue in the centre of the Old Town Square is testament to this.

Also in the Old Town Square are these 27 crosses which we had walked over several times in brief explore in Prague. Only today wa sit explained to us that on this very spot in 1621, 27 Czech Lords were executed (beheaded) for rebellion against the Habsburg Emperor. Their heads were then hung for ten years from the Charles Bridge as a public reminder of the consequences of such rebellion. It was a violent world.

Our very cold walk took us all over the old inner city of Prague, with a continous history lesson as we walked. We were fascinated by the buildings, the markets and the narrow cobbled lanes that ran off in all directions. We frequently were asked to run on the spot so everyone could warm up. As freezing as it was, we seemed to grow more closely as a group. I thought it was amazing that we lost no one over the course of the three hour tour.

The architecture is simply amazing................

We were most impressed with our guide Kate, the Aussie. She was passionate and in love with her adopted country. She told many stories from history, stories of the struggle of the Czech people, whose country has been invaded dozens of times over the centuries, stories of the struggle for survival and the fight for nationhood, the strong resistance to the Nazi invasion and the long, patient endurance under the many decades of communism that promised so much and delivered little except despair and desolation.

When WW2 broke out, Prague was ruled by the Nazi dictator Reich Protector Heydrich (the butcher of Prague). In 1942, two young Czech Resistance fighters trained in England, parachuted in to Prague on a mission to assassinate Heydrich. They succeeded, but in the aftermath over 5000 Czech citizens were tortured and/or executed as a result. Ultimately, the two resistance fighters were cornered in the base of a church tower by the Nazis, where with five others they chose suicide rather than be captured by the Germans. The price of Czech Freedom has been very high, but is neverthless valued and cherished by the Czech people.

We could sense the immense emotion in Kate's heart as she told these stories during our very informative three hours together. Our time however soon came to an end as we looked out over the greatest sights in Prague, over the Vltava River with the unimpeded vision to the Castle and the St Vitus cathedral. If anything will be a lasting visual memory, it will be this one.

We made our way back to the square for a warm coffee in order to thaw, before doing some shopping for our cycle trip out of Prague and further west along the Vltava and Elbe Rivers. The temperatures tomorrow promise to make it an uncomfortable day on the bikes, but being hard core cyclists we are saying just 'bring it on'. It will be 2 degrees when we head out tomorrow, heading for the village Roudnice on the Elbe River, just east of Terezin, the WW2 Concentration Camp from where thousands of Jewish people were sent to their deaths, including almost ten thousand children.

The story of the Czech people has been one of struggle, yet not without triumph. The land has been fought over down through the centuries, but the Czech people have remained stoic and resilient in their determination for freedom and their desires to be a unified people with good leadership and government.

Reflecting on these two days of experience, I can't but help think about the words of the Old Testament prophet Zephaniah to Jerusalem who too had a history of their own struggles for peace and freedom. The promise of God came through the prophet "The Lord your God is with you, he is mighty to save. He will take delight in you, he will quiet you with his love, he will rejoice over you with singing" (Zephaniah 3:17)

As we rest for this final night in the humble Hostel Elf, not that far from the River Vltava in the great city of Prague, we rest knowing that the God who put the stars in place and the planets in their orbit, rejoices over us all tonight as a mother over her child in a cradle.

From the city of Prague we send our love - Kelvin, Julie and Sarah-Jane 

The history is far too detailed and complex to even attempt to summarise here.

Day 42 – 29 October 2012 – Prague

Our ‘Hostel Elf’ is a typically quaint Hostel not that far from the Old City of Prague, probably a 15 minute brisk walk. It is 3 stories high, but being built into a rock cliff face, the reception is at the top level, accessed by 50 steps from the front street, but on a level with the park access from the rear. Our floor is the middle floor which is only accessed by the 50 steps up to the reception, then a steep internal winding staircase down inside the building to our floor! We carried our eight panniers, two tents and other gear up then down. The bikes remained on top.

Today was a day of exploration of the great city of Prague. The conditions were near freezing. We came in on the train through fields of snow in the countryside. There was still ice on cars and roof tops. The temperature was barely above zero all day. These are not great conditions for touring cyclists!

We walked to the Old City, then across the bridge that spans the great Vltara River. We spent much time on the bridge, which gives glorious views across the river to the hill on which the great Cathedral and Prague Castle has been built. The centuries old historical Charles Bridge links the Old City with the Castle on the opposite bank of the Vltara, and no longer carries vehicle traffic, was ever in view.

In every direction the view was spectacular. We slowly crossed the bridge, initially in search of a map shop, but also for the infamous coffee shop that specialized in ‘vaccuum coffee’. While the girls enjoyed the vacuum coffee, I went wandering in the cold in search of the cycle map of the Vltara/Elbe bike track that would take us to Dresden and then Wittenburg in a few days time.

With both objectives achieved, we headed for he Castle and Cathedral. We hadn’t gone far before we came to the ‘Hunger Wall’. According to the history, King Charles IV ordered the wall to be built in 1360 as a means of giving labour to the poor. He is reputed to have said “the poor should know there is no such thing as free bread”. He was a good King, apparently spending some time each day working on the wall alongside the workers. The wall also had defensive purposes.

Not far from the Hunger Wall is the unique memorial to those who were victims who  either lost their lives or had their lives ruined by Communist totalitarianism and despotism. We found this to be a very moving and impacting memorial.

We climbed the narrow cobbled streets to the Castle and the Cathedral. On the way the sights were incredible. Photos hardly do justice. The sights to the city below as the climb went higher were spectacular. The Castle is nothing short of huge, having been expanded several times over the centuries by generations of Kings, since the first castle was built in 970AD.

The Cathedral though stands out and is the first thing seen when approaching Prague from any direction. There was still snow and ice lying around, the temperatures of the day not allowing the ice and snow to melt, evidenced by the long block of ice extending from this gargoyle’s mouth!

We lingered on top of the castle for some time, just taking in the views back over the Vltara River, the bridges, and the city skyline.

Eventually though we had to descend and make our way gradually around the river and to cross back into the Old City by the beautiful Charles Bridge. The Bridge was packed with tourists and traders, mostly selling artwork of Prague scenes. The musicians were also plying their trade, busking on the bridge, as were the beggars of which there are many around the city of Prague.

The sights were delightful, and worth the excursion out for most of the day in the freezing temperatures. We walked back into the old town square, where we found this fabulous musical group at work, the focus of attention being the old version of the ‘bagpipe’. The young guy playing it was superb. They always attracted a huge crowd whenever they played.

We enjoyed a nice warm late lunch in a back lane café which served incredible food for exceptionally reasonable prices. It was also warm and a welcome break from the cold of the day.

Just before the end of day, the sun tried in vain to break through. It added a lovely touch to the encroaching dusk, although it didn’t last for very long. We enjoyed some ‘thaw’ time in a modern shopping complex which was neatly disguised behind the old building façade, buying up on warm gloves and thick socks in preparation for the next leg of the cycle trip which promises to be very cold.

 Prague is a beautiful city, with an amazingly colourful and fascinating history. We saw a lot today, trying to capture just some of what we saw as reminders of our experiences. What is hard to forget is the sight of the amazing St Vitus Catherdral built alongside the massive castle that dominates the landscape for miles around.

 

As we rest tonight, we rest beneath the skyline dominated by the castle and the Cathedral. They have stood for centuries. The castle especially has been something of a fortress for the rulers and the people of Prague for over a thousand years. They seem everlasting, but are of course only bricks and mortar, although substantial.

The Bible reminds us though that God is the ultimate fortress, the only real safe place in whom we can indeed find the security and the certainty that is essential for this life and beyond. The Psalmist says “He alone is my rock and my salvation, my fortress where I will never be shaken” Psalm 62:2

With love from us from the edge of the beautiful Vltara River in Prague.

 . Kelvin, Julie and Sarah-Jane