Day 22 - 9 October 2012 - Regensburg to Passau (by train)

It was a very wet night at Regensburg. Fortunately we were tucked away in our elegant little Hotel Weidonhof, and happy that we had made the decision to stay the extra day at Regensburg, and due to catch the train today to Passau, a train ride of about one and a half hours to the east.

We enjoyed our final breakfast, loaded the bikes and then walked the few hundred kilometres to the large railway station. We were 'old hands' at this now. We negotiated the lifts, went straight to the ticket office and within minutes we had our tickets to Passau, bikes with tickets also, and waiting on the platform in the cold conditions for the train. We were happy not to be out in the cold, soupy conditions today.

The train ride was uneventful. We had to change trains half way, which was no problem to us hardened train travellers. The sights out of the train were lovely, despite the dampness. What impresses us here in Germany is the massive utilisation of solar power. Most house roofs have solar panels. Today we saw massive solar panels, perhaps at times that extended for a kilometre alongside the train tracks, possibly covering a few acres of otherwise unused farm land. We have never seen anything like this before.

We arrived in Passau, rather excited, but also sad knowing that we were about to leave Germany and enter Austria. Overnight we had decided to get to Passau and then ride on for twenty kilometres or so to a camping ground along the river. However, the very wet weather turned us off this idea. So we went straight to the Information Centre, secured a very cheap room in a 'Fahrad Zimmer/hotel' for little more than the cost of a tent in the camping ground! Basic yes, but quite okay. It is better than a tent, at least it has power to recharge our gadgets!

Passau is almost indescribable. It has 5,000 years of history. It sits at the confluence of three major rivers - the Inn, the Ilz and the Danube. At the confluence, it becomes the Danube all the way to the Black Sea. We dropped our bags at the 'Fahrad (bike) Zimmer' and set out to explore the old city and the Danube.

The Danube is of course a very majestic river. Here at Passau is the beginning of the major boatways between Passau and Vienna and beyond. The edge of the Danube was a parking bay for the great boats and barges that carry thousands of tourists every year. There were many beautiful sights, especially with the change of colour of the season. Despite the rain and wet conditions, the place was nevertheless beautiful.

A picture is worth a thousand words...............



 Passau is home to probably the greatest 'Dom' of them all. Dedicated to the Christian Martyr St Stephen, the Cathedral is located on the old town's highest point. We have never ever seen a Cathedral with such intricate interior, the hundreds of colourful frescos and carvings were just too numerous to be imagined.

 The Cathedral organ is the largest Cathedral organ in the world! It has over 17,000 organ pipes, the organ is in five parts but all played on a single keyboard. We were simply speachless at the sight of the massive interior, the intracacy of the detailed work of the frescos and the hundreds and hundreds of delicate and ornate carvings throughout this very considerable Cathedral.

 Passau however, was never short of a very beautiful view. The dominant feature at the confluence of the Ilz and Danube Rivers is the 11th century fortress of "Veste Oberhaus" (photo near top of blog). Passau sits very close to the borders of Germany, Austria and Czech Republic - the fortress has watched over Passau from invading forces for over 800 years.

As evening begins to fall on another eventful day, we are sitting in a very Bavarian cafe, the 'Theatre Cafe' along the waterfront. Through the window we can see people constantly passing by on the narrow cobbled street. It is bleak outside, but forecast for fine weather tomorrow, when we will be back on the bikes and heading for the tiny hamlet of Kaiser, some 60k towards Linz. As we leave Passau tomorrow morning, we will be crossing the border from Germany into Austria. We will miss Germany. We have come to love it and the German people very much.

As we sat in awe inside the great Dom, the Cathedral of St Stephen, we wondered what St Stephen himself would be thinking. Stephen was one of the early Christians. In the years following the crucifixion of Christ, those who became followers of Christ were subject to cruel persecution. Stephen was one of those. He stood by what he believed, even in the face of persecution. Acts chapter 7 in the Bible tells the story in a brevity of words. Stephen stood by his faith, it infuriated his tormentors who with the gnashing of teeth dragged him outside of the old city of Jerusalem and stoned him to death.

True though to his confession of faith in the Gospel of Jesus Christ, St Stephen's final words were truly indicative of the depth of his faith in Jesus Christ. Emulating the very words of Christ upon the Cross, St Stephen's final words were a simple prayer for those who were doing him the most harm. The Bible says "He fell on his knees and cried out, “Lord, do not hold this sin against them.” He succumbed to the stones, and died.

As we sat in the enormously ornate Cathedral dedicated to his name, we thought the humble St Stephen would want all honour and glory to be given to God alone. The Cathedral, however, stands for a greater message - the message of forgiveness found only in Jesus Christ, in whose name St Stephen was prepared to give his life.

As we rest in Passau tonight, on the very edge of the beautiful Danube and the Austrian border, we rest in the thought that the God who looked over Stephen all those years ago also looks over us all tonight.

With love from us, Kelvin & Julie