Day 23 - 10 October 2012 - Passau to Feldkirchen - 76k

It seemed a long night at the ‘Fahrad Pension’ where we stayed at Passau. The building was actually part of the original Passau railway goods yard, which has now been nicely converted to a downstairs bakery, and upstairs converted into a kind of backpackers for cyclists and others. It was a basic room with a double-decker and two singles, and you get what you pay for. At least linen was clean, as were the shared toilets. Being off-season for tourists, there were few guests other than us.

It was a bleak and cool morning as we rolled our bikes down to the River Inn, crossed the massive bridge over the same river, and headed east along the narrow bitumen path before the River Inn met the junction with the Danube which then formed the single River Danube.

Today was simply glorious cycling. The path all day was all bitumen. It ran mostly along the river’s edge, and the views were nothing short of spectacular! We were heading for the small hamlet of Kaiser, some 60k east of Passau, which would put us within 40k of Linz for the following day when we were due to link up with our daughter Sarah-Jane who was flying in from London for three weeks cycling with us.

The sky was dull and overcast, with what seemed like a screen of smoky distant mist all day which detracted from being able to take spectacular photos. The scenery was breathtakingly glorious all day long. As we departed Passau, we delighted in the commanding views once more of the magnificent castle overlooking Passau.

The track was fast, which reflected the gradual drop in elevation the further east we travelled. Within a few kilometers we crossed the border into Austria, feeling a sense of sadness to be leaving Germany which has been a great experience for us.

The autumn colours of the forests and the massive oaks that lined the bike path at times were astounding. We passed through lots of rural countryside, even passing a paddock full of beautiful deer. We loved the old guy with the massive antlers! He knew he was king of the herd, without question!

The site of Burg Kampelstein in the long distance through the mist of the morning was a small token of things to come. We were making good progress given the excellent track and the ever so slight downhill gradient, but we stopped often to take photos, which slowed down our progress.

It wasn’t long before we had to wait for our first of two ferry crossings. We departed Passau on the right (south) bank of the Danube, but now chose to cross to the left (north) bank. The advice received proved correct – the sights from the left bank were far more spectacular for the next session, before crossing back again.

All the time, we were never more than a few metres from the beautiful Danube River. The sight of passenger boats and ferries always caused us to stop and enjoy the sight. The Danube is mostly flanked on both sides by very high wooded hills, with occasional ‘Burgs’ (castles) keeping watch from high on the hilltops.

We couldn’t resist coffee and a ‘currywurst’ sausage deal at a small café along the river. We enjoyed the slight sunshine that was trying to peep through the clouds, making the day look a lot brighter.

We were closing on our target of Kaiser for the day, and looked like getting in very early. As we were getting closer, we could distinctly hear the sounds of a Scottish Bag-Piper! The sound is unmistakable! In a further kilometer or so, we found a lone piper, a young Austrian man, on the edge of the Danube right away from civilization, rehearsing his bagpipes! We stopped and chatted. He was delighted to hear of Julie’s Scottish heritage, and me in my St Andrews cycling shirt emblazoned with the Cross of St Andrew!

As we rode away, our hearts were stirred as he played just for us, “Scotland the Brave”! The Scot amongst us was ready to storm the lines of the English, if there were any! (read your Scottish history and the attempted return of Bonnie Prince Charles (Uncle Charlie!).

We came to the second ferry crossing. This one was only for foot traffic and cyclists. The boat was there but no ferry master. We waited for a few moments, and then in the far distance we could see the ferry master leaving his little home on his bike. He had noticed we were waiting, and that was his queue to get on his bike and drive the ferry. It was a cute little boat which guided us safely across the swift flowing Danube.

Coming around the final bend to Kaiser, we could see another massive castle towering above from the top of the mountain across the river. We thought it would be great to camp with a view like that one.

However, when checking in with reception, we were advised that there was no food available, no restaurant or bistro, not even a kiosk. We thought better of staying, and decided to push on another 15k or so to camp ground past the next major town of Aschach, where we could buy some groceries.

We were there in no time, filled up with items for dinner, and crossed the river by bridge this time back to the left bank, and through the small village of Feldkircken, to the camping ground at the local golf course! It was a lovely ride through vast open rural fields. We were the only tent, and were told to set up just outside the toilet/shower block which was a wonderful bonus.

It was quite cold now. We set up in no time, and for the first time cooked our own dinner, a sumptuous hot meal of German sausages and vegetables, with dessert and coffee made on milk. It was dark by 7pm, and with nowhere else to go, there was little choice but to get into our sleeping bags to avoid the very cold evening sweeping in.

Suffice to say, it was a very long, cold night in the tent!

Thinking about the day, the 76k seemed to pass with ease compared to most days. The track was good, there were no hills to speak of, and the wind was basically non-existent. Every moment of the day was enjoyable and satisfying. We could easily have kept cycling. Thinking about the Scriptures, the verse in Isaiah 40:12 comes to mind. “Those who hope upon the Lord will renew their strength, they will soar on wings like eagles. They will run and not be weary, they shall walk and not be faint”.

Life is rarely a breeze, just like distance cycling with a load is rarely easy. The Bible says however, that when we put our hope in the Lord, we can face life with a different attitude. We can know with assurance that we do not have to carry our burdens, we can have renewal and refreshment that comes from God who shares our load for us, and who lifts and carries us by the strength and power in His ‘wings’.

As we rest tonight not far from the Danube’s edge, on a very cold night, we know that our daily strength for the many challenges of life come from beyond us, from the One who promises that we can ‘soar on eagles’ wings’.

With love from us on another great day on the road, Kelvin & Julie.