We scored very well with our accommodation at the ‘Hotel Post Wien’. It is a 6 story charming, hotel situated in District 1 of Vienna, barely 200 metres from the great Dom of St Stephen, the centerpiece of the old town sector of Vienna. The Hotel Post is also old world, with wide carpeted corridors and old fashioned service. Our room is large, and despite the central location and quality, the price which includes a hearty ‘all you can eat’ breakfast is extremely reasonable.
We spent the entire day strolling and exploring the streets and alleyways of old Vienna, whose history started in or about the year 100AD when the Romans set up the ‘Vindobona’ military camp amidst some existing celtic settlements at what was the northern frontier of the Roman Empire. The Roman fortress was to protect the Empire from the Germanic tribes north of the Danube River. A civilian town flourished next to the Roman camp, and when the Roman Empire fell in the 5th century, the town overtook the emptied fortress with the first mention of ‘Wenia’ in the annals of Salzburg in the 8th century.
The original Cathedral of St Stephen was built in 1137, which has since been almost entirely replaced by the magnificent Dom that has now stood since the 14th century, although the 13th century remains of the original cathedral are still prominent and visible.
The Cathedral of St Mary that we visited in Linz could have been taller than the great Dom St Stephen except for the Emperor’s decree that no building should be taller than St Stephen’s. St Mary’s is a few feet shorter, but they defied the Emperor by adding a cross on top which they claim has put its unofficial height above the great Dom of Vienna.
The cobbled streets and narrow alleys and market places were crawling with people. It was alive with tourist as well as those simply rushing about their business. It was extremely difficult to pass the square in front of St Stephen’s without being badgered by hawkers dressed in period costume selling concert tickets for the music of the great classical masters. Even in our best track pants and joggers, we didn’t think our attire would be acceptable at a concert of Shubert, Mozart and Beethoven.
The photos below show a wonderful service that is available in Vienna. If you choose not to drive your car home any day, you can ask this nice man to come with his truck to collect it for you. Apparently it costs a lot of money if you wish to get your car back, but obviously people in Vienna have a lot of money otherwise this man could not operate his car ‘take home’ service!
We made for the magnificent Imperial Hofburg Palace, the residence of the Habsburg Emperors for centuries up to 1918. Originally a 13th century medieval fortress, it has expanded over the years including Imperial stables which now houses the Spanish riding school. The presence of dozens of horse drawn carriages added an original flair to the centuries old palace. The horse drawn carriages carry tourists in and around the old quarter, and which have traditionally operated from the square at the front of St Stephens for centuries.
Roman ruins have been found beneath the square at the front of the Imperial Palace. It was great to see this, and to see that the authorities are keen to preserve that which has built over by previous generations.
We passed the great Parliament House which would look equally at home in Washington DC. We were heading for probably one of the most spectacular buildings that cut a very high and beautiful profile across the top of the massive trees in the parks surrounding the old Quarter. The City Hall, or ‘Rathaus’ is just a stunningly attractive building, and an architectural masterpiece. Built 1872 in neo-gothic style, it looked more like a magnificent Cathedral, with huge spires that stood above anything else in the inner city landscape. The Architect Friedrich von Schmidt was also the cathedral architect of St Stephen’s during 19th century, so it is little surprise that he created this neo-gothic masterpiece.
We enjoyed the walking but it is probably more tiring than sitting on a bike all day! We spent time wandering the old shopping areas, and also checking out the residences where Beethoven and also Mozart were reputed to have lived in the old quarter. In fact, Mozart’s house is a mere 200 metres from where we are staying.
One of the incredible features of inner city Vienna is ‘The Anker Clock’. It is part of an arch linking two buildings across a narrow lane. It cleverly uses life size figures in period costume, each one carrying the ‘hour’ and moving ever so slowly, but which moves to show both the hour and the minute, and keeping perfect time. We stood for ages trying to work out how it worked, and waiting for the figures to move.
We spent the dusk hours wandering the city Stadtpark, and admiring some of the more spectacular buildings lighting up against the encroaching dusk.
It was a wonderful day in Vienna. As the sun went down, we strolled again past the great Dom of St Stephen, admiring its incredible patterned roof before finally making our way back to the Hotel Post.
One of the many things that struck me today was the intensity of the inner city. The throng of people was immense. People were coming and going in great numbers. Cyclists were rushing by at great speed. Horses drawing carriages packed with visitors were continuously passing by. Shoppers, business people and workers were bustling back and forth all day long. Trying to walk through the crowds in the main square outside St Stephen’s Cathedral without being caught by one of the many concert hawkers was a tension in itself.
It caused me to reflect on the words of Jesus when he saw the kind of stresses being carried by the average person as they bustled around Him. He recognized in the people the unnecessary burdens of everyday life that they carried, often alone. In this context, Jesus uttered some pertinent words which throughout the ages have been used in many different contexts but for good purposes. He said “Come to me all you who are weary and burdened, and I will give you rest. Take my yoke upon you and learn from me, for I am gentle and humble in heart, and you will find rest for your souls. For my yoke is easy and my burden is light”. (Matthew 11:28).
As we rest tonight in the city of the great composers, we rest knowing that the one who said ‘Come unto me” looks over us and those who follow our travels.
Kelvin and Julie, and Sarah-jane
I have goosebumps reading about these ancient cities. To be there amongst so much history must be mind blowing.
ReplyDeleteJane