Our ‘Hostel Elf’ is a typically quaint Hostel not that far from the Old City of Prague, probably a 15 minute brisk walk. It is 3 stories high, but being built into a rock cliff face, the reception is at the top level, accessed by 50 steps from the front street, but on a level with the park access from the rear. Our floor is the middle floor which is only accessed by the 50 steps up to the reception, then a steep internal winding staircase down inside the building to our floor! We carried our eight panniers, two tents and other gear up then down. The bikes remained on top.
Today was a day of exploration of the great city of Prague. The conditions were near freezing. We came in on the train through fields of snow in the countryside. There was still ice on cars and roof tops. The temperature was barely above zero all day. These are not great conditions for touring cyclists!
We walked to the Old City, then across the bridge that spans the great Vltara River. We spent much time on the bridge, which gives glorious views across the river to the hill on which the great Cathedral and Prague Castle has been built. The centuries old historical Charles Bridge links the Old City with the Castle on the opposite bank of the Vltara, and no longer carries vehicle traffic, was ever in view.
In every direction the view was spectacular. We slowly crossed the bridge, initially in search of a map shop, but also for the infamous coffee shop that specialized in ‘vaccuum coffee’. While the girls enjoyed the vacuum coffee, I went wandering in the cold in search of the cycle map of the Vltara/Elbe bike track that would take us to Dresden and then Wittenburg in a few days time.
With both objectives achieved, we headed for he Castle and Cathedral. We hadn’t gone far before we came to the ‘Hunger Wall’. According to the history, King Charles IV ordered the wall to be built in 1360 as a means of giving labour to the poor. He is reputed to have said “the poor should know there is no such thing as free bread”. He was a good King, apparently spending some time each day working on the wall alongside the workers. The wall also had defensive purposes.
Not far from the Hunger Wall is the unique memorial to those who were victims who either lost their lives or had their lives ruined by Communist totalitarianism and despotism. We found this to be a very moving and impacting memorial.
We climbed the narrow cobbled streets to the Castle and the Cathedral. On the way the sights were incredible. Photos hardly do justice. The sights to the city below as the climb went higher were spectacular. The Castle is nothing short of huge, having been expanded several times over the centuries by generations of Kings, since the first castle was built in 970AD.
The Cathedral though stands out and is the first thing seen when approaching Prague from any direction. There was still snow and ice lying around, the temperatures of the day not allowing the ice and snow to melt, evidenced by the long block of ice extending from this gargoyle’s mouth!
We lingered on top of the castle for some time, just taking in the views back over the Vltara River, the bridges, and the city skyline.
Eventually though we had to descend and make our way gradually around the river and to cross back into the Old City by the beautiful Charles Bridge. The Bridge was packed with tourists and traders, mostly selling artwork of Prague scenes. The musicians were also plying their trade, busking on the bridge, as were the beggars of which there are many around the city of Prague.
The sights were delightful, and worth the excursion out for most of the day in the freezing temperatures. We walked back into the old town square, where we found this fabulous musical group at work, the focus of attention being the old version of the ‘bagpipe’. The young guy playing it was superb. They always attracted a huge crowd whenever they played.
We enjoyed a nice warm late lunch in a back lane café which served incredible food for exceptionally reasonable prices. It was also warm and a welcome break from the cold of the day.
Just before the end of day, the sun tried in vain to break through. It added a lovely touch to the encroaching dusk, although it didn’t last for very long. We enjoyed some ‘thaw’ time in a modern shopping complex which was neatly disguised behind the old building façade, buying up on warm gloves and thick socks in preparation for the next leg of the cycle trip which promises to be very cold.
Prague is a beautiful city, with an amazingly colourful and fascinating history. We saw a lot today, trying to capture just some of what we saw as reminders of our experiences. What is hard to forget is the sight of the amazing St Vitus Catherdral built alongside the massive castle that dominates the landscape for miles around.
As we rest tonight, we rest beneath the skyline dominated by the castle and the Cathedral. They have stood for centuries. The castle especially has been something of a fortress for the rulers and the people of Prague for over a thousand years. They seem everlasting, but are of course only bricks and mortar, although substantial.
The Bible reminds us though that God is the ultimate fortress, the only real safe place in whom we can indeed find the security and the certainty that is essential for this life and beyond. The Psalmist says “He alone is my rock and my salvation, my fortress where I will never be shaken” Psalm 62:2
With love from us from the edge of the beautiful Vltara River in Prague.
. Kelvin, Julie and Sarah-Jane
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