We were up before dawn to get ourselves organised for what was promising to be a big day. Firstly, it is never easy or straight forward to negotiate your way out of big cities such as Prague. Much time is lost. Secondly, we anticipated a very cold day. The forecast said we would be riding into snow some 80k west of Prague along the Elbe River. Finally, the reports from our trusty track map indicated numerous places where the track surface was very poor. If they say poor, it is very poor indeed. The two days we spent in Prague were freezing, so especially for the bike journey ahead we purchased decent gloves woolen socks just in case. It was a great final night at the Hotel Elf. We dined 'in' again, and prepared our own breakfast. By 8am we were lugging our bikes and gear down the 50 steps from the reception to the street level, and we were all packed for the photo by 8:15am.
We managed the ride over cobbled side streets and made it to the Vltava River, just north of the Hostel. We joined the track which wound its way along the river which did a massive 'S' bend for about 8k before straightening and heading towards its ultimate convergence with the mighty Elbe River some 40k to the north west at the pretty village of Melnik. Leaving Prague we passed this amazing 'Trojan House' which qualified for the photo album! For many miles we never lost sight of the enormous St Vitus Cathedral perched on Prague's Castle hill, until we finally turned away from Prague on our way to the Elbe River.
The threats of snow and cold were never realised. It turned out to be a cold but sunny day. It was 4 degrees leaving Prague, and although it may have reached ten by midday, it was basically a typical, beautiful winter's day in Canberra. The cycling kept us warm, and I spent the morning, for example, without any gloves at all. Once we cleared Prague, the path was initially great, and the views along the Vltava were stunning if not beautiful.
It all changed within a few kilometres! For those who have cycled this track, they will never forget this horror stretch. The track suddenly turned to rock and mud for quite some kilometres. It was nothing short of appaling. The book warned us of a 'poor surface' but we expected nothing like this. We had already worked out an alternate route, but this did not start until we got through this horror stretch. The photos hardly do justice. It was mud and rock, which probably centuries ago was laid as a cobbled road using very large blocks. The blocks were now seriously exposed, and extremely dangerous for cycling. The workmen were working on the track, but it made no difference for us. We managed to get through on our narrow profile tyres and weighted bikes. It was a miracle that we managed to ride through it, bouncing, slipping and sliding and none of us falling off, although we had many close shaves. The water was just to our left.
After the horror section, we came to a pretty part of the river with a turn off up to the hilltop village of Klecany which the book suggested as an alternative route to avoid more of the same horror surface and which is dangerously close to the river bank. We turned up the hill which turned out to be a very serious hill climb of about 1-2k at least 10% gradient. It took no time for the hearts to be pumping, the legs grinding and the gears clicking down. SJ was away and got a great head start in the belief that she could outpace her aging father to the top. I saw the breakaway, and kept her in check most of the way from 50 metres behind but was amazed at how the legs of youth could keep propelling her on her loaded bike. It was a good hit-out for me with my 45kgs of bike and load, feeling the benefit of 2000k's of intense training in Europe. It was a serious climb, winding its way up and up with no signs of a hilltop through the dense forest and buildings.The gap was closing and almost closed, but it will be left to eternity as to whether the daughter beat the father, or whether the father feels he just ran out of hill! We stopped at the hilltop village square, the only sound filling the morning air was the pounding of healthy hearts and the heavy breathing of two very sweaty cyclists. Official result SJ by a bike length (with a weight advantage!).
We were now quite high in altitude, and could feel the difference in the very cold air. We were on a beautiful farmland plateau, having left the bike path behind and now on rural and farm roads through beautiful fields and paddocks. The scenery was stunning in every direction. We rode through several small Czech villages, a privilege really. We were off the tourist route. No one spoke English, and we felt almost intrusive as we rolled our bikes through these typical rural Czech countryside villages and farms.
The road eventually turned downhill by a narrow path from the village of Vodochody through some of the most stunning forest that we have see. The path was covered by a carpet of thick, wet golden leaves from the dense forest, almost making the durface dangerous as we allowed the bikes to sweep down, looping from left to right as the track curled its way downhill to the river again. The sights were beautiful and passed all too quickly for us.
Joining the river at the bottom, we were back on bad track again, although not as bad as before. The surface was cobbled with large rocks which must surely have been a very old original pathway for carts pulled by horses. The track was seriously close to the river some 2 metres below us which kept us alert as we negotiated our way along the rivers edge while at the same time enjoying the views across the river but also the beautiful forest high to our right hand side.
With most of the bad track sections behind us (we thought), the countryside continued to be stunning. We turned away from the river for a while, winding through farms and small villages which gave us some beautiful views everywhere we looked. At one point we shared the path with a young lady riding a most beautiful horse. Despite the encroaching winter conditions, we chose the right time to cycle through Europe. This trip would have been no where as memorable without the experience of the golden autumn leaves that have tracked with us since our first day. We have progressively watched the colours of autumn close over Europe during our previous seven weeks. It is stunning.
All out on its own, we came through the trees of the forest to find this stunningly beautiful country manor with its own river running alongside.
Arriving at the riverside town of Luzec, we had a decision to make (which was easy really). If we didn't take the little ferry to cross the river, we would be facing a 'Pipeline Bridge' a few kilometres further on which had a flight of steel stairs on both ends of the bridge to negotiate. We were hoping the ferry would be operating because we did not enjoy the prospect of lifting our bikes up four flights of steep steel stairs, twice! As we turned the bend in the river we could see the little boat tied up across the river. We rolled down the dirt track to the edge of the river where there was a small bell, and written in Czech it said "ring for 3 secs". So we pushed it for 3 seconds, and almost instantly a young guy came out of his little river house across the river, and brought his little barge across to collect us. We just managed to fit into his little boat, which was only powered by the speed of the current, and a cable to a pulley. The boatsman simply changed the direction of his manually operated rudder, and the current of the river propelled the boat across the river, suspended by the pulley. It was an amazing experience. We had beaten the Pipeline Bridge with its nasty stair cases!
Our joy was short lived! We rode out of Luzec on what was the 'alternative path', but which turned us into a paddock with barely a track at all. We rode through this for some 2-3k at times not even certain it was a 'track'any longer, except it was rutted although covered with grass. Being damp it was also slippery and soft and muddy. Again, how we managed to ride our loaded bikes through this defied all logic. Even SJ with her 38C tyres had difficulty, slipping and sliding. We were almost through, when it has to be admitted that the great tour leader KA went down with a thump on what was fortunately a soft landing. The wheels slipped sideways, and being locked into the pedals there is no way out of it. The bike is heavy, but the fall only hurt the pride!
The grassed paddock option was still better than these stairs, both ends! This was a very long bridge, The photo does not show the other end. We preferred our ferry trip despite the paddock experience.
We were closing on Melnik for lunch, where the two great rivers converged. Before we got there, the beautiful scenery returned. We cycled through many kilometres of this, as we followed the last few kilometres of the Vltava River.
Despite the difficulties of the morning and the relatively slow progress due to the conditions of the track and exiting Prague, we were now making great time. It was 2pm, with only 30k to our ultimate destination. We were warm and comfortable on the bikes, and stopped for lunch with the beautiful Palace which adjoins the Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul at Melnik just across the River Elbe. The confluence of the rivers is in the far background of the photo. We were now on the banks of the River Elbe. We realised how cold it was when we stopped for lunch, despite the blue sky and sun. Nevertheless we enjoyed our typical lunch, even 'boiling the billy' and making our own coffee.
We were aiming for the river bend town of Roudnice. We were confident that we could find a hotel, having looked at a few on the 'net' before leaving Prague. The afternoon was a very pleasant ride along the Elbe. The track was mostly good to great, with occasional patches of reasonably decent gravel. We just enjoyed the scenery, with ancient villages, old buildings and even what appeared to be a very ancient stone wall running for a long way along the opposite side of the river.
The final run into Roudnice was along a beautiful part of the river. The sun was sinking, although it was only just after 4pm. It was an amazingly stunning sight as we could see the great bridge in the distance that indicated we were close to our destination for the evening.
It is always great to arrive. We had covered 85k today, which was a great day despite the complexities of the morning and especially the seriously bad track conditions in some parts. They are, however, soon forgotten. The sights today were stunning, and greater is promised for tomorrow.
We managed to get a great room at the Hotel Koruna, just off the river. Darkness rolled in very quickly. We enjoyed a brief walk around the darkened streets of this amazing town which has some very substantial buildings and from what we can see, some amazing history.
Today is 'hallowed eve' or as some may know - Halloween. It comes on the eve of 'All Saints Day' on the church calendar. However, we have passed another significant day on the church's calendar - 'Reformation Sunday' which for me is a far more important day that the trivialised celebration of these days where somehow the world is becoming captured by the idea of 'halloween'.
Reformation Sunday is usally the last Sunday of October, remembering the significance of the stand of Martin Luther who objected to the practices of the church of his day, affirming the truth that we cannot buy forgiveness or pay for privilege before God. Luther re-asserted the truth of the scripture that is really the foundation of Protestant theology, that we are 'saved by grace, through faith in our lord Jesus Christ'. Jan Hus was burned at the stake for his attempts to bring the church back to the essential truths. Luther was successful, and changed the course of church history, affirming the truth of St Paul when he wrote to the Christians at Ephasus "For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves. It is the gift of God" (Ephesians 2:8).
As we rest tonight on the banks of the River Elbe in Routnice, Czech Republic, we rest knowing that it is by God's grace and not by anything we do that can enjoy merit and favour with him.
Love from us - Kelvin, Julie and Sarah-Jane
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