Friday, October 19, 2012

Day 32 - 19 October 2012 - Vienna

Our second and final day in the city of Vienna started as usual with a sumptuous breakfast at the Hotel Post. The tradition here, especially in Vienna, is to give complimentary fruit as you leave. As if we had not eaten enough, but we were happy to receive our complimentary fruit to add it to our lunch basket. We walked to a local bookstore to secure an excellent bike touring map for the journey from Vienna to Bratislava and beyond. We have made the huge decision overnight to alter our plans significantly and cycle through to Budapest, Hungary and cancel our original plans to cycle north through Slovakia and then to Prague.

I think it was cycling with our German friend Bernard on the way into Vienna that the seed was planted in our minds. We have enjoyed the Danube path, which of course runs all the way to Budapest and beyond, which is where Bernard was cycling. We were heading for Bratislava in any case, and Budapest is a further three days ride. However, this would mean that to make our commitments in Prague for 27 October, we would have to 'train it' from Budapest to Prague.

Today however, we planned to travel to the Schonbrunn Palace, reputedly one of the greatest sights that Vienna has to offer. Set on hundreds of acres, not that far from the old city of Vienna, the Schonbrunn Palace and gardens rivals Versailles in Paris. The foundations for the Palace were laid by Emperor Leoplod 1 in the 17th century, intended as a stately residence for himself. It became the summer residence of the Imperial family. At its best it was intended to regularly accommodate more than 1500 people, with over 1400 rooms!

We set out via the local underground, another new experience in Vienna. Purchasing a 'day ticket', it gave us access all day to trains, trams and buses. The underground took us quickly to the Palace, where we were immeduately struck by the enormity not only of the Palace itself but the beautiful sprawling gardens, woods and vast lawns of the massive property which comprises the Schonbrunn Palace.

The photo below is actually the rear entrance (!) which looks out over the vast estate of sheer beauty. Our cameras were incapable of capturing the vast expanse of manicured property and the grandiose quality of the buildings. The penultimate Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph died here in his bed in the final days of WW1 while his empire was fighting for the survival of Austria. The final Emperor Karl II signed away the empire on 11 November 1918 for Austria to become a republic in these very same rooms, a peculiar parallel with the Palace of Versailles in Paris!
Sadly, the persistent morning mist prevented quality photos, although the day was very warm. I was in shorts and shirt sleeves most of the day, the temperature climbing to 21 degrees by early afternoon. The photo however shows the beauty of the lawns and gardens with the Gloriette high on the mound in the background. There are dozens of acres of hedges, including a complete zoo that were not capable of being captured on camera.



Tunnels of immaculately manicured trees ran off the main centre square of the Palace grounds, each leading to a separate feature of the Palace courtyard. This was one of them. They were a kaleidoscope of colour with the beautiful autumn shades of yellows and reds and browns making the scene akin to a work of art.

Statues are everywhere in Vienna. This is part of the Neptune Fountain, a centrepiece in the Palace gardens.

As we climbed the hill to the south of the property, the view of the main Palace became only more spectacular. Not only that, but the views back to the entire Vienna skyline opened up like an artists full canvass. Again sadly, due to the thin haze and the limitations of the camera, the view is not as spectacular as we viewed by eye.



This was quite a walk which tested our weary cyclist legs. There are still occasional complaints about 'lactic acid'. However, it was a happy trio that finally crested the hill at the far south where the massive marble monument (the Gloriette) stood high over the entire Palace grounds.

On our return back to the Palace, we went the longer route through the thick forest to the edge of the Palace grounds. Here we found a man with a special gift. He could call the squirrels and also the ducks. We missed the photo of him actually hand feeding a duck that waddled after him in response to his 'duck call'. But he could also call the squirrels, and this one was very relaxed about coming to him to take from his hand while he continued to speak in 'squirrel'!

We reluctantly left the beautiful Schonbrunn Palace, making our way back into the old city of Vienna by train, to explore some of the old narrow streets and alleys that have come alive to artists, coffee shops and all kinds of interesting little shops. This area was something like the Newtown of Sydney or Carlton of Melbourne. Centuries old buildings were being restored, and the precinct was transforming itself into a very trendy, expensive and attractive part of the old city.


Before the day came finally to an end, we caught the tram and then the underground beyond the Donau Kanal to check out our exit plans for tomorrow morning. At the same time, we called at the main railway centre to purchase our tickets for the trip from Budapest to Prague.

We walked the long way into old Vienna, the route of our proposed exit tomorrow morning. Getting out of Vienna is challenging on a bike, especially for touring cyclists who are unfamiliar with the city. However, we feel confident that we have 'nailed it' and we should have no drama finding our way to the Danube River and then on our way to Bratislava.

To end a magical day in this beautiful city, Sarah-Jane took her mum and dad out to dinner in a traditional Viennese restaurant (a gift for her dad for father's day).  We ate beautifully prepared dishes of pork, beef and Kelvin enjoyed a traditional dish of beef goulash.  The night was so relaxing and with good food. We walked slowly back to our hotel via the gelato man - what a way to finish our time in Vienna.


Tomorrow we leave Austria, and enter Slovakia en route to Bratislava, where we will also take a day or two to appreciate the great city and its environs before heading for Budapest, the capital of Hungary.

It has been a great two days in this great city of the famous composers. As we walked the massive grounds of the Schonbrunn Palace, I could not help reflecting on the words of Jesus. Emperor Leopold commissioned an architect to design him a suitable Palace for him as the Emperor. The Palace resulted, with its accommodation for over 1500 people in its 1400 rooms. It was more like a small city when everyone turned up.

Jesus, speaking about eternal life, spoke of an even larger palace. He said "In my father's house are many rooms. If it were not so I would have told you, for I go to prepare a place for you. And if I go and prepare a place for you, I will come again and receive you to myself; that where I am, there you may be also". (John 14:3)

Emperor Leopold's Imperial Palace may be big, but there is much more room in our Heavenly Father's house prepared for us.

From the great city of Vienna we send our love

Kelvin, Julie and Sarah-Jane

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