Dinkelsbuhl lies on the rolling plains of the northern Bavarian district of Ansbach. It was first established as a town in 10th century as an outpost to guard the trade route from the Alps to the northern medieval capitals of Germany. Due to a variety of circumstances, Dinkelsbuhl has survived the destruction experienced by other centres due to wars over the centuries, and has been retained in near original condition to the current day.
We were very comfortable in our beds at the Hotel Goldner Hirsch. We enjoyed a bit of a sleep-in after our rough day in the saddle yesterday. Breakfast was ready for us at 8:30am.
We were not rushing today. At about 10am we set out for a few hours of exploration of this beautifully restored, medieval, fully walled historic village. It is fully cobblestoned within the walled area of the village, which centers around the 13th century Minster (Cathedral) of St George. The tower porch at the opening dates to 11th century! Among a host of historically significant features, it contains on public display the actual dressed remains of St Aurelius who was martyred (beheaded) in AD64 by the Emperor Nero in Rome.
We went to the Information Centre to get some directions, and then set off to explore. The buildings in every direction were all simply stunning, including our own Hotel Goldner Hirsch which is just as historic and beautiful as any other building of its kind, especially the older ones on what is now called Dr Martin Luther Strasse, where we are staying. The coffee shops with outdoor tables, chairs and umbrellas make the scenes in every direction just perfectly picturesque.
The Rothenburg Gate (12th century) is one of several gates to the city, containing its own torture chamber and prison cells in the tower. There are four gates to the village, and sixteen towers built around the walls. We didn’t explore all of them, but could see many from our different vantage points.
Prisoners would have had a nice view of the swan filled pond outside the wall! The scenes here were simply glorious. The swans and ducks were happily at play. The lovely golden leaves of the great oaks had laid out a carpet display for us, making the scenes from the different angles an absolute spectacle.
The next tower along the wall and also facing the pond was the debtor’s prison and park caretaker’s lodge, who apparently had one of the prettiest views of all of Dinkelsbuhl. As difficult as it would have been to be in prison as a debtor, at least the views over the thick forest and the lovely surrounding ponds would have helped to ease the pain of incarceration in this place.
On our walk we bumped into a very lovely couple who had just cycled into the village, and whose accents sounded all too familiar. Julie and Dominique are from Perth, and are cycling the Romantic Strasse (road) from Wurzburg to Fussen in Germany’s far south. We felt like instant ‘soul mates’ because we had both suffered over the same ‘bike path’ conditions the previous day. We couldn’t stop giggling as we told the same stories of getting totally lost in the same places, pushing heavy bikes up the same steep, gravel climbs through dense forests, trying to make sense of German speakers directions that only seemed to add to the sense of being completely confused, and thinking the same frustrated thoughts about the so called “Romantic Road’! They finally made it to Feunchtwengan also, but stayed the night, and rode the final 27k on the winding path that for cars is a mere 13k! They have warm hospitality waiting for them in Canberra if ever they find the way there! Interestingly, Julie and Dominique also have a daughter living in London, and another daughter getting married in a few months time!
We spent many hours walking the cobbled streets, enjoyed ‘kaffee’ in one of those beautiful places with tables and chairs in the sun, and decided to have a late afternoon ‘siesta’. The weather changed rapidly in any case, and it rained for most of the afternoon.
We fell in love with these two horses whose daily task it is to pull tourists around their beautiful village. Their ‘horse stop’ was just outside our bedroom window. They are lovely creatures.
Tomorrow we head for the Danube River. We will spend our final 75k on the famous ‘Romantic Strasse’ on our way to Donauworth (Donau is the German word for Danube), where we will finally turn east and spend the next ten days or so on the Danube en route for Vienna and Bratislava.
We will leave by this gate tomorrow. It is the Wornitztor, the oldest gate of the village (based on the edge of the Wornitz River) with the 16th century Lion’s Well in the foreground, the centerpiece of the oldest market square in Dinkelsbuhl. As we leave tomorrow, we will ride over centuries of histoy as we follow the Wornitz River toward the Danube on the Romantic Strasse.
I have been thinking about St Aurelius since seeing his remains in the altar of St Sebastian in the Minster of St George here this morning. I must confess my ignorance in not really knowing any history about St Aurelius. He was beheaded for his faith in AD 64 by the Emperor Nero. Interestingly, this is believed to be the same fate and the same year that St Paul, who wrote most of the New Testament apart from the Gospels, met his fate. Did they know each other? Were they known to each other? Were they able to exchange encouraging words before facing the chopping block? Perhaps others know. I will have to learn some more. One thing I do know - before his death, St Paul writing to Christians in Philippi and also to us today left us with words that can be the guiding principle for each of us for our lives. He said “In whatever you do, conduct yourselves in a manner worthy of the Gospel of Christ….so that I may hear of you that you are standing firm….striving together for the faith of the Gospel”. (Philippians 1:28).
No doubt for both St Paul and also St Aurelius, these words were true for them as they faced their ultimate fate under Nero. It is a good challenge also for us today, for the manner in which we devote our own lives.
From our lovely nest overlooking the main marketplatz in the old historic centre of Dinkelsbuhl, we send our love. Kelvin & Julie
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